Removing an upstairs wall

[indigoblue]

We live in a house built in the late 50's, early 60's.
I am currently working in the bathroom, which I made slightly larger a while ago by removing the clinker breezeblock wall that ran between the toilet and old bathroom. This wall was built directly onto a floorboard, and across the ceiling joists below, without any other form of support. Running parallel with the ceiling joists in the attic, and finishing between two of these, made it a relatively straight forward process to remove this wall.
My concern lies not with this removed wall, but with the other internal wall that formed the old bathroom. This wall is also built in clinker breezeblock, and was originally built onto a small timber plate, over a fairly substantial timber joist below (approximately 8" x 4"). Below this joist lies the kitchen, but no support, just as the first wall was constructed. However, in this case, there are ceiling joists running across the top, and resting on, in the attic space. The house was not built with any framework in the roof, it is just roof rafters supported on either side by substantial cross beams, with joists running from rafter end to rafter end.
I recently called upon the services of an electrical company to completely rewire a new shower installation I am making. Part of this work entailed fitting a wall switch for this shower on the outside bathroom face of this above mentioned wall. The guy carrying this work out was rather heavy handed and caused much damage to the joints of about six of the breezeblocks, as far as I can make out that is. So heavy handed was he that his mate actually asked me to fit a timber backing plate to the wall on the bathroom side, so that they could fit the switch pattress to something.
Having voiced my extreme concerns to this electrical company in no uncertain terms, I am now worried about the wall.
My thinking is that I must remove this structure and replace it with a new timber stud alternative. I have all the materials, and really keen to set to with the job. But I am concerned that there could be problems regarding the joists above.
Any help would be gratefully received thank you.

 

[tim00]

Speaking for myself, there is too much detail to take in. Perhaps you would post some pics - believe me, people will respond.

 

[indigoblue]

Thanks tim00.
I understand what you say about detail, it was because I was trying to cover everything and not leave any reasoning/detail out.
Basically, I would like to know if it is possible to remove a clinker breezeblock upstairs wall and replace it with a stud partition. The wall sits on a timber plate and substantial joist, but nothing else, and carries five 4" x 1.5" ceiling joists in the attic above, at approximately 16" centres. That's about a six foot run of wall altold; I will retain the door frame section, as this is already studded out above, and will keep costs down.
Will there be any problems caused when I remove the wall?

 

[indigoblue]

This is a view of the attic space above the wall in question. I have shown the line of this wall, and hope that this will indicate the relationship to the roof construction with a gable end. View media item 46058

 

[tim00]

No, there shouldn't be any difficulties with having a stud wall below.

When you begin to remove the top breeze blocks, make sure that the ceiling/joisting is not beggining to sag. A slight sagging can be forced back into level.

note: why didn't your extractor venting go straight out of the gable instaead of looping about?
The unprofessional, loft cables etc. could do with sorting out.
In fact, you would be well advised to post a separate post and pics in the elec. forum with details of your bathroom elecs.

 

[indigoblue]

I very much appreciate your input and advice tim00, thank you very much. The work can now be undertaken with a bit more confidence, although I will be very mindful of any sagging joists. My main concern now will be the delay between removing the blockwork and measuring and fitting the studwork. Hopefully I can achieve this on the same day, but that remains to be seen. I've constructed stud partitioning before, but have not had to be aware of possible problems like this.
The extractor had to be placed as it is because there is the apex of a single storey extension at the point where you mention.
Yes, I agree with you on the untidy electrics. The bathroom lighting is to be dropped into a lowered bathroom ceiling soon, and the cable changed to a less rigid type. The same change has to be made to the extractor, where the cable to the unit itself is far too large and unwieldy. All cables require pinning correctly as well. Again, I will take your advice and post in the lecky forum regarding all this.
Thank you once again for making my first experience on this site a very enlightening one, your comments have saved a great deal of grief.