Removing Break Glass Call points

[funkydiver]

We're moving into a house that was until recently a Residential Home.

Consequently it has a Fire Alarm system in place with smoke detectors in every room (except bathrooms) and heat in kitchen and laundry and emergency lighting in relevant rooms.

Can anyone advise on the removal of them from the system. I can get photo's of the specific alarm control box innards if required, however, I'm guessing it'll be a case of just whip 'em out following safe practices of course. I know, I'm old fashioned but they don't really fit in with the wifes decor planes.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[sparkymarka]

Most fire alarms are 24volt ..... Most ! Some old systems are 240v so be carefull . First step down power the fire alarm panel , then remove the equipment.. A picture of the equipment would be helpfull

 

[EightyTwo]

If it's a conventional 24V alarm, you'll need to link the "IN" and "OUT" connections. Officially, you should use ceramic connectors rather than plastic choc blocks. If you find that the MCP is the 'end of line' it might be worth disconnecting the EOL device and connecting it to the previous smoke head and disconnecting the final section of cable altogether.

Of course, if you're really lucky, you might find that all the MCPs are on a single zone by themselves...

 

[funkydiver]

Cheers Sparkymarka...

Pretty sure it has a step down transformer with battery power for bells built in. I know one of the tests I used to have to do was make sure it all still worked with the mains power to the unit turned off, including emergency lighting etc.

I'm driving past tomorrow and I'll grab that photo. I seem to recall a bus-type bar in it with a load of connections on it.

 

[funkydiver]

As promised, photos of the alarm. It's a Protec alarm system if that helps. Didn't jot the model down *DOH*

Untitled

• funkydiver
• 10 Nov 2014
• 1

Untitled

• funkydiver
• 10 Nov 2014
• 1

Oh, the central heating timer above to the right is for the magnet fire door holder-openers.

Nice to see that we have a Bomb Alert option in place ready for the End of the World scenario

 

[sparkymarka]

Lol like it " bomb alert " .. Looks like a 24v fire alarm switch off with switched fuse spur above panel , looks like there are 2 x 240v cables going into pcb so be careful are the door magnets 240v ?

 

[funkydiver]

I think they are 240v. There are three of them running off the CH timer, which was put in place to shut three doors at predetermined times on an evening.

I'm not sure what the white box is about above left. I'm guessing that it's where the various wires come in and connect together.

Zone 1 is upstairs, comprising of 6 smoke and a call point.

Zone 2 is downstairs comprising of a LOT more, but includes 4 call points.

 

[sparkymarka]

Are you wanting to get rid of just the call points ? Or all devices ?

 

[funkydiver]

Just the call points, no point in getting rid of a perfectly serviceable and working Fire Alarm after all. Peace of mind for the family and all that.

 

[sparkymarka]

Are the call points plastered into the wall ? If so take it off join the Reds together and the blacks together in a 5amp connector and fit a single gang blanking plate over the box , post a picture of the call points, they should have two cables to each call point a in and a out , if only one this will be an end of line and it will have either an eol device or a resistor fitted across the two cores.

 

[EightyTwo]

I might be wrong but... It looks to me like the big grey box is a psu or set of relays for the holding magnets and the alarm's Aux 24V is being switched by the alarm relay to (de)activate the magnets.

So there's only one bell circuit and both zones have been run in T&E rather than FP200 (Firetuf) - nice! Maybe you don't need to bother with ceramic choc blocks!!

It's worth checking the batteries. Replace them as a pair, if necessary.

 

[sparkymarka]

Seen loads of older fire panels wired like this , detectors in pvc, bells in fp200.

 

[funkydiver]

In the main the call points are surface mount with conduit (at least the ones that would affect the 160 year old cornices!!)

So I'm basically bridge the gaps to keep the circuit continuous and I'm golden?

Getting to the cabling under floors / in roof spaces is straight forward enough, so tracking back to a hidden spot will be simple enough.

The batteries were renewed in 2012 and tested January 2014, so I'm not unduly worried on that front.

Next time I'm up the house, I'll take a butchers in the big grey box and see what's in there. If it is the relays for the magnets, they can go.