Removing downlighters without destroying ceiling

[squelch41]

Hi,

I am trying to remove a downlighter unit from the ceiling as the 12v line to the bulb has broken and needs replacing.
I cannot get the unit out of the ceiling - I can see the 2 metal clips but when I compress them in, the unit still wont budge and I am just damaging the plasterboard around the ceiling.

Any tips on how to do this so I can get at the transformer!?

Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

If the tranny is the slim type, you may be able to pull it and the connecting wires out through the downlight housing.

Otherwise its just try and be as gentle as you can and give it a yank.


Hold on for a mo while i buy some Polyfilla shares.

 

[Steve]

You shouldnt have to do anything behind the fitting to get it out. It should just pull out - grip the fitting and pull. You will feel the springs trying to pull back. They may spring back violently when its released, so watch your fingers!

 

[squelch41]

problem is, as I pull, I can see the plasterboard start to bend!
Having to use long-nose pliers to get enough pull.
There don't seem to be any screws in the fitting holding it in

 

[Lectrician]

Some downlights, particularly the JCC fire rated types are a PITA to remove without damaging the plaster. The wings are the two tonged type, rather than a single tong (new word!), making them pull on the plasterboard. You have to be so careful and push the tongs in with a screwdriver as you drop them.

If your lamp holders have failed, this will be because you either did not puch the lamp holder fully onto the lamp, or you have a canned type fire rated fitting and fitted a dichoric and not an aluminium reflector lamp.

The difference being that dichroic send the heat backwards and an aluminium sends the heat forwards. A dichoric will overheat the fitting and kill the lamp holder.

Look for "Cool Fit", "Heat Forward", "Aluminium Reflector" lamps.

 

[Lectrician]

Can you post a pic of yours?

 

[squelch41]

Untitled

• squelch41
• 29 Oct 2011
• 1

 

[Lectrician]

Yours are the two tonged type, and you need to kep pulling!

the hole look a tad to tight which will make it harder.

What happened to the front of the fitting? they are not generally removeable.

Your can type fitting is very bulb is very lamp specific - get heat forward types!

You could pull the fitting out, and if it damages the plaster too much, replace the lot with some decent ones. I opt for Ansell fittings which fit a 74mm hole (larger than usual, so can cover scars), have open backs (even the fire rated types), can use any lamp, and have a single TONG, not two, so easy to remove.

 

[squelch41]

When you say 'Two tongued' does that mean that there is another clip hiding behind the one I can see?

Are there any techniques that seem to work or is it just a case of grab the clips with pliers, and pull?

The front of the lamp fitting is removable Bayonet fitting so comes off simply!

Ideally, I'd like to change the whole thing to 240v GU10 downlighters +/- CFL bulbs but want to see what is behind there, how transformers are wired etc.

(I tried 12v LEDs and they weren't very good - plus the transformers arent really LED compatible. Even then, leads still need replacing)

If not an option, just going to replace the leads.
Take your point about the bulbs.

Thanks for all your help so far

 

[martinxxxxxx]

When I have had this problem, I have released the clips by squeezing the spring bit of the clip to fully compress it, then maneuverer one end of it off of one the two retaining tabs. Thus demanufacturing the fitting so it just falls out. Got me out of a tight spot once or twice if you pardon the pun

Martin

 

[333rocky333]

You should not be pulling the clip with pliers,

Pull the actual fitting and the clips will hinge and roll over

 

[RF Lighting]

This is how your type clips work.

The bits you can see in your photo wedge against the edges of the hole in the plasterboard which holds the long arms onto the back of the plasterboard.

As you pull the fitting out, the short arms come out of the hole a bit releasing pressure off the long arms until the entire thing will just come out of the hole.

 

[WabbitPoo]

Yours are the two tonged type, and you need to kep pulling!

the hole look a tad to tight which will make it harder.

What happened to the front of the fitting? they are not generally removeable.

Your can type fitting is very bulb is very lamp specific - get heat forward types!

You could pull the fitting out, and if it damages the plaster too much, replace the lot with some decent ones. I opt for Ansell fittings which fit a 74mm hole (larger than usual, so can cover scars), have open backs (even the fire rated types), can use any lamp, and have a single TONG, not two, so easy to remove.

You'll have to use a plasterboard saw to cut round the larger hole if you go down that route, so watch for cables as you do so.

 

[squelch41]

Great - thanks for all your help
That diagram in particular helps explain why I am having trouble!

I don't suppose there are any tools that slot up to push back both sets of springs and facilitate and easy removal are there?

 

[squelch41]

Some success though in perhaps a slightly unorthodox way!
Was trying to use an old loyalty card to slide past the pressed spring to protect the ceiling. In doing so, accidentally pushed the fitting right back into the ceiling space.

Was then able to retract back the rear supports so could all fit through the ceiling.

The springs on these fittings are incredibly strong - don't think I'd have been able to pull them through the hole - would have ripped a hole in the ceiling.

To re-fit, had to jiggle it back in and somehow, it sprang back

Attached is a picture of the full fitting just to help anyone who stumbles across this in future and needs an idea of what they look like in the flesh

Untitled

• squelch41
• 30 Oct 2011
• 1