Removing Laguna brake disc

[Jon42]

I'm changing the front brake discs on my 98 Laguna. I've done one side, but the other's giving me problems.
I've removed the two disc retaining screws but the disc just will not come off. There are traces of Copaslip around the centre of it, I don't know whether that would form some kind of seal.
I've tried hitting it with a hammer, copious WD40, as a last resort I even put the car up on axle stands, put it in gear and got the hubs turning then hit the brakes. All this has told me is that the clutch will slip before the brakes, even though the disc isn't screwed onto the hub any more!
Does anyone have any idea how to get the disc off, or am I going to have to replace the whole hub? Can I put a blowtorch on it, or is that going to fry the bearing?
Any advice gratefully received!
Thanks.

 

[Belle427]

take it for a run if possible and use the brakes a lot to get some heat into the discs then wallop them with a hammer,you will probably shatter the disc so get some satefy glasses on,applying too much heat may fry any seals or sensors

 

[Teahead]

use an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc or a hacksaw and cut a slot in the disc from the edge towards the centre then place a cold chisel in the slot and hit with a club hammer to crack the disc making it possible to remove. All of the above assumes you are replacing the discs with new ones. I've had to do this on the last two mondeos i've had, they both had the original ford factory fitment discs on and i think they put them on hot to give a tight shrink fit.

 

[Jon42]

OK, that's a thought, if a bit scary!

But if the disc seems to be almost welded to the hub as it is, is it going to shatter and leave some bits stuck to the hub anyway? Or, I should say, might it...? I suppose I might be able to get at the joint then though.

I won't be able to get to this until the weekend now, so if there are any other ideas I'm still open to suggestions!

Thanks.

 

[Jon42]

Sorry, that first was a reply to ch427

Teahhead, do you mean cut the slot across where the centre of the disc where it's against the hub, or across the outlying parts of the disc from the edge towards the hub?

I have to say I prefer the sound of that, not least because it doesn't involve shattering hot metal and I don't have to get home and whip the wheel off before it all cools. And I've already got an angle grinder...

Any more? Keep 'em coming folks! I'm feeling more hopeful already!

 

[Hitachimad]

Give it some wellie with a decent hammer, around the edges rotating it a few times, a couple of good hits in the middle section, this should shock it loose, then from the back of the disc.

Failing that, a puller if you have or can borrow one.

 

[Jon42]

To pull against what? All I know is bolting the puller onto the hub through the disk and pushing against the end of the driveshaft, but for that I would have to be removing the whole hub.

Can you explain please?

Thanks

 

[Hitachimad]

Puller on the edge of the disc, pushing against the hub using a suitable sized socket to space it out onto the hub rather than the end of the driveshaft.

 

[Teahead]

pullers don't seem to work in this type of situation, trust me i've done a few.

Cut a slot in the disc braking face, through both sides of the vented disc. When you crack it the crack will extend right through the part that has become fixed to the hub, thus loosening it making it now possible to remove. quick and painless.

Ps don't beat the disc endlessly with a big hammer as suggested by hitachimad, all you will do is knock lumps out of the disc and b****r up the hub bearings.

 

[backyard]

use an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc or a hacksaw and cut a slot in the disc from the edge towards the centre then place a cold chisel in the slot and hit with a club hammer to crack the disc making it possible to remove. All of the above assumes you are replacing the discs with new ones. I've had to do this on the last two mondeos i've had, they both had the original ford factory fitment discs on and i think they put them on hot to give a tight shrink fit.

I beat on the rotor for about four hours, then I went and got some penetrating oil and a gear puller and beat on it for another couple hours. Finally I decided to ask somebody with some experience and searched the internet. Most of the advice was "Beat on it!!" So much for THAT.

Teahead's advice is right on the mark. I used a hacksaw with an 18 per in blade and had the rotor cut to the hump over the hub in about five minutes. It took a couple whacks to get the chisel to start into my cut, a couple more to get it started well, then just a few more to split the b*****d right through the middle!! It fell right off in two pieces.

Thanks for helping us out. Thanks for this forum.