Removing old metric radiator

[Gregzilla75]

I'd like to remove an grotty old metric radiator from my bungalow, decorate behind it and then get someone in to install a new one (I have a quote and happy to pay someone qualified to do it!), but I'm just a little nervous about dismantling the radiator myself.

Referring to the photos, I have turned A and D nuts fully clockwise so that the radiator is off but do I now unscrew B and E, or C and F to remove the radiator?

Makes sense that it's B and E but to just ease my self doubt it would be nice to have somebody confirm this please.

Thanks.

 

[aveatry]

I am not a plumber but.
Leave C and F and just undo E and B and the pipes will carefully pull away from the rad. Not sure about what valves you have so I am not 100% that you have actually turned them off.
First crack open one side E or F - heath robinson yourself something to catch the water and direct it to a container. Undo the bleed at the top to allow air in and facilitate more water to come out.
When you remove the rad off the wall -WATCH OUT as it will no doubt have loads of black sludge inside that will go all over your carpet when you tilt it
You leave C and F as those valves are preventing the system water from coming out. Your plumber will deal with those when they fit the new rad - which will be slightly longer or shorter probably as going from imperial to metric - unless I read it wrong. and in any cace you probably wone get a matching size rad.

This is what E looks like when new - all the threaded part is inside your rad and the big nut is E and that should move away from D and F along the smooth section you can see in the below picture. But you have a lot of paint you might want to remove to help it

 

[Gregzilla75]

That's brilliant, thanks for the reply. Was all set to go and then realise my wrench isn't big enough (ooh-errr!). Will postpone until tomorrow and hopefully all goes well.

 

[aveatry]

As I say I am not familiar with your valves but I think you need to close off the smaller nut on the right side (above D ) and its corresponding nut with the wings on the left side. Also left and right need to be turned in different directions to close off the valve. A way to check is that the shaft with the little nut on should go down to close off. Which it looks like it might be.
- Towels loads of towels - maybe even pull back your carpet.

 

[foxhole]

You need to isolate first by screwing down valve either side, ( both clockwise)but beware this is not guaranteed to isolate and they may let by.If you have a combi boiler you need to release pressure via the air vent valve.

 

[aveatry]

Have a look on UTUBE ther are some good vids that will help.
Foxhole is right. When you go out and buy a bigger wrench also get yourself some blanking caps for the valve.

 

[Gregzilla75]

Ok. I do have a combi-boiler, so will get these in the morning...

 

[aveatry]

Looks a good shopping list to me. After turning off the rad pipe valves undo the bleed valve at the top first to release any pressure. Then do it back up and it will reduce any gush of water if when you undo the nut E and then trying to pull the pipe away from the rad it suddenly comes away fast and gushes water everywhere.
You want to try and ease it away gently just a bit to let the water come out in a controlled way - then open the valve at the top to let in air and push the water out.

One more thing the adjustable spanner may have fat jaws that you struggle to get in a tight space - check out thin jaw adgustables. also use a water pipe grip to hold the pipe valve body when you are undoing nut E and B

 

[polesapart]

You'll need two decent sized wrenches; one for the union nut and one for the valve body.

You don't want to put any strain on the pipework going up into the valve.

 

[aveatry]

You need to isolate first by screwing down valve either side, ( both clockwise)

I had it wrong then - thinking one side is one way and the other side the other way.

 

[foxhole]

Check nut size some older rads are not 1/2”.

 

[Madrab]

The old valve unions are meant to be 3/4" but a 3/4" blank won't fit the valves, don't ask me why, I never have figured that one out. Don't forget unless it's new valves for the new rad then you'll need to keep the tails out of the old one. Righty tighty to turn both of the valves off.

+1 re the 2 tools - that union will not unscrew from the valve without some force being put on the pipe that goes up into the valve. You need to hold the valve steady while undoing the Union nuts (B/E), looking at the paint on them they will probably take a bit to undo, sometime it pays to try and tighten them just a touch before trying to undo.

 

[aveatry]

The old valve unions are meant to be 3/4" but a 3/4" blank won't fit the valves, don't ask me why, I never have figured that one out. Don't forget unless it's new valves for the new rad then you'll need to keep the tails out of the old one. Righty tighty to turn both of the valves off.

+1 re the 2 tools - that union will not unscrew from the valve without some force being put on the pipe that goes up into the valve. You need to hold the valve steady while undoing the Union nuts (B/E), looking at the paint on them they will probably take a bit to undo, sometime it pays to try and tighten them just a touch before trying to undo.

There you go a proper plumber

 

[opps]

The old valve unions are meant to be 3/4" but a 3/4" blank won't fit the valves, don't ask me why, I never have figured that one out.

You are one of the posters whom I respect. I have never had any problems using a 3/4 blanking nut, I do however use a 3/4 blind washer in the end. Perhaps you mean that the threads alone are not sufficient to prevent them weeping even though the pressure is extremely low?

 

[aveatry]

You are one of the posters whom I respect. I have never had any problems using a 3/4 blanking nut, I do however use a 3/4 blind washer in the end. Perhaps you mean that the threads alone are not sufficient to prevent them weeping even though the pressure is extremely low?

I think the blanking nut the OP posted has a rubber washer inside the top