Removing tiles

[Jake2021]

Hi,

in the next few months I’m needing to get some roof tiles removed so I can get some timbers into my loft.

I would think removing two rows would suffice from the first rows closest to the guttering .

could anyone tell how much I should be paying someone to remove two rows?

the tiles are the wavy type( not sure of the name) not flat slate

we are a mid terraced house

Thanks
Jake

 

[tell80]

Your tiles sound like concrete interlocking tiles - often these tiles can be simply lifted off the tile laths, & then the felt is cut to allow the threading of timber or steel into the roof space.

Its often best to open the roof higher up than you propose.
And maybe a larger opening will be needed?
The best place, & best size, will depend on a number of on-site factors.

Being safe while accessing your opening, and making good afterwards can be answered separately if needed?

 

[Alastairreid]

Get 3 estimates, will need scaffold..loft conversion?

 

[tell80]

No, you wont "need scaffold" - you wont know whats needed until you've established exactly whats going thro the hole.

 

[datarebal]

Hole lower down means longer timbers or steels can slide in

 

[tell80]

Hole lower down for the OP means maybe going into joist bays - which could be very awkward.
Or even entering the roof thro a soffit, & having to angle up & in the material.

 

[Jake2021]

Hi thanks all for your replies and helpful info.

mits not a loft conversion as I don’t have the be height however I’m wanting to install some deeper joists next to my original and install some 25 cm insulation and some loft boards.
The joists will need to enter at the front of the property.

I did consider joining the joists however as the supporting wall upstairs is just lattice and plaster with a stud frame I feel a structural point of view full lengths would better. They will be resting on the front and rear external walls.

hope this makes some sense?
Im a plumber and have already got rid of the headset tank etc which wasn’t needed anyway so they should slide straight in. mom starting to wish I was a roofer instead lol
Thanks
Jake

 

[Diver Fred]

I think you will need to take the bottom 3 rows out.

Lift the 'front' edge (the lowest edge of the 4th row) and then you should be able to lift the 3rd row away. That should expose the top edge of the 2nd row. Expect the 2nd & 1st rows to be nailed so you will have to pull the nails out.

Take note of the pitch of the battens for replacement.

A tiled roof should be nailed on first, second and then every 5th row. (Some roofers nail every 3rd/4th rows particularly in exposed locations.) Slates are nailed every row/slate but not at the top - either half way or 2/3rds of the slate.

 

[Jake2021]

That’s fab thanks for info , it’s going to really help
Thanks
Jake

 

[tell80]

Jake,
If you post a pic of the front elevation including showing the roof at the eaves, things will become much clearer.
Posting the proposed joist section size and length will also help.

Similar to my post#6,
Some roofs have low projecting eave soffits, and some eaves have plastic Eaves Protectors in place so merely opening up the first three courses could simply lead you to butt up to obstacles.

 

[Jake2021]

Hi ,
Maybe not the best pics but may give you a idea thanks Jake

 

[tell80]

Apart from the small soffit I cant tell all that much but why not just go at it - lift a tile about 4 x courses up, cut the felt, & see where you are?

 

[Alastairreid]

Bottom 3 courses and a scaffold to do what you propose.

 

[tell80]

Jake, Do not do what the above proposes - unless you like extra work and extra expense?

 

[catlad]

If your mum would like you to live a bit longer then you will need a tower at least to do the work safely.