Renault Clio 2 16v 1.2 Fuel vapour System/solenoid

[andyr123]

Hi all - the wife has a 2003 16v 1.2 Clio mk2 and I just want to ask a question about the solenoid valve that goes into the carbon filled canister behind the front drivers side wheel (its behind the drivers side headlamp)

Should this solenoid valve make a noise like a fast popping (like a machine gun) when engine is running and carry on when engine is turned off for about a minute or 2 ? - does that sound like its operating ok , or that it might be sticking/faulty?

Thanks.

It looks a bit like this:

 

[Burnerman]

It's a curious thing that allows petrol vapour from the fuel tank to be cleaned rather than just vented into the atmosphere.....the container is called a carbon canister and a solenoid controls the vapour entry.
They do click, but not so much as it disturbs you inside the motor.....expect it to continue after switching off until the immobiliser system has shut down - probably after a minute or so.
John

 

[andyr123]

It's a curious thing that allows petrol vapour from the fuel tank to be cleaned rather than just vented into the atmosphere.....the container is called a carbon canister and a solenoid controls the vapour entry.
They do click, but not so much as it disturbs you inside the motor.....expect it to continue after switching off until the immobiliser system has shut down - probably after a minute or so.
John

Thanks for the reply, so should it just make a positive click on and off or click, click, click, at a fast rate? - thanks

 

[Burnerman]

From what I recall, the solenoid operated at maybe 2 times per second.....but it wasn't as loud as yours!
The noise is a plastic valve opening and closing.
You can do away with this system, but don't simply disconnect the thing or a fault code will be generated.
John

 

[andyr123]

From what I recall, the solenoid operated at maybe 2 times per second.....but it wasn't as loud as yours!
The noise is a plastic valve opening and closing.
You can do away with this system, but don't simply disconnect the thing or a fault code will be generated.
John

Thanks, thats a bummer I disconnected it the other week and now its thrown up the orange engine light - hopefully I can try the "drive for 100 miles and light will go off automatically" trick rather than getting it reset at a garage or buying a diagnostic handheld device - if not I suppose I can get the diagnostic device, seen the obd2 devices for around 30-40 quid and it says it resets codes as well as diagnoses sensors - other than that the MOT isnt til june next year. I suppose why light is on ECU will be running in safe mode?

I have put the valve back into the canister now this evening - think it was so loud because one of the other previous owners took the valve out of the canister and left it flapping about behind the top engine mount, i suppose the noise was travelling up through the body. - if thats normal 2 times per second then it must be working ok - thanks again.

 

[Burnerman]

I'd very much doubt if this scenario would cause the car to go into limp home mode......is it performing well?
As for the 100 mile drive, I've no idea about that one! The diagnostic tool will allow you to read the code and cancel the malfunction light, but most cheap ones give generic readings and therefore aren't specific to any particular faulty component -but they are excellent value, nevertheless.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

Disconnecting the battery may wipe your fault code.

 

[Burnerman]

Does that actually work? Never tried it!
John

 

[andyr123]

I'd very much doubt if this scenario would cause the car to go into limp home mode......is it performing well?
As for the 100 mile drive, I've no idea about that one! The diagnostic tool will allow you to read the code and cancel the malfunction light, but most cheap ones give generic readings and therefore aren't specific to any particular faulty component -but they are excellent value, nevertheless.
John

Going well when its warmed up (well between 1st notch and medium on temp gauge) - rough idling at first start up and while its warming up, she said the onboard computer is reporting 45mpg and its got a lot of poke in it when its warmed up - I wonder if its rough on cold idling because I have disconnected the fuel vapour valve? - maybe when cold its calling for some fuel vapour to help it idle when cold from the carbon canister but because I had disconnected it and it wasn't getting any?

only reason I thought it might go into open loop limp mode is because I thought I read somewhere that when orange engine light is on that the engine goes into limp mode until fault cleared or sensor replaced or put back on again.

 

[andyr123]

Disconnecting the battery may wipe your fault code.

Thanks, I've tried that a few times - even left battery off overnight with all sensors connected , no joy it didnt clear it, but my daughter's boyfriends car is a Mazda and he had orange engine light on and he has got to take it for MOT soon and he wanted the light gone before he took it in - so we tried the disconnect battery for 15 minutes (disconnected positive first from battery , touched it to earth put headlights on, pressed horn - wanted really to drain all the power from the system/ecu) and after 15-20 mins hooked battery back up, I pressed in odometer button on dash whilst turning key to 2nd notch (all lights on the dash) then turned off key then started up the engine and lo and behold the orange engine light had gone out yey! - so something out of that lot must have worked!

He phone me when he got home (about an hour away) and said not only had the light stayed out on the journey home but that he reckoned the car run better and smoother than it has done in ages

 

[Burnerman]

Best to leave the system connected, Andy.....the engine might gulp fresh air when it shouldn't, otherwise.
John

 

[andyr123]

Best to leave the system connected, Andy.....the engine might gulp fresh air when it shouldn't, otherwise.
John

Thanks John -