Rendering kitchen walls

[mazears]

View media item 18065Is it ok to plaster the inside kitchen walls using sand/cement/lime 5:1:1 then skim topcoat with plaster finish. Or use one of the thistle plasters in a bag or dot dab plasterboard it all then skim?

 

[advancemaintenance1]

as its a new build i would use plasterboard and dryfix then skim. dryfix is a canned foam designed for plasterboarding on new builds. it is cheaper, cleaner,faster and easier

 

[dextrous]

I sort of agree with a dot and dab approach - easier to drop cables down the back of plasterboard if the first fix wiring is slightly out. Not sure about the fastfix, but no reason to doubt it. Personally I'd still be more inclined to use plasterboard adhesive, since you can create a larger gap behind the board for the aforementioned cables, plus straightening ("verticalling") out any of the existing walls

 

[advancemaintenance1]

iv used it loads of times and swear by it,obviously sometimes dot and dab is better when walls are out of plumb etc. either one are the best options i guess its just personal preference

 

[dextrous]

iv used it loads of times and swear by it,obviously sometimes dot and dab is better when walls are out of plumb etc. either one are the best options i guess its just personal preference

Not arguing with you on this one - haven't used it enough to know. Can you set plasterboard further out to allow for levelling etc?

When I last used it, some did expand out round the edges, but it didn't seem to push the board out of true, to be honest

 

[advancemaintenance1]

iv only ever used it on new builds that my company has done and walls have always been plumb. i wouldnt reccomend it for out of plumb walls to be honest. if you leave a 100mm free space all the way round when you apply it doesnt seep out at the edges.give it a go on your next project i think you will be pleasently suprised i only started using it after it was on special offer at my suppliers andreally glad that i did its so fast and you can skim over after half hour

 

[mazears]

does the dryfix need to be used with its appropriate applicator gun or can you use it with any foam gun? Some of the kitchen is new build blockwork and rest is old brickwork so maybe dot dab is better as all walls not totally flat. What plasterboard do i use for the kitchen area. Was thinking fireboard for ceilings and moisture board for the rest (or can i get away with normal plasterboard). Down one side i intend tiling half way up wall behind new units. Should this area be aquaboard similarly the window cill behind sink? Is it not better to sand/cement all walls instead (cheaper/better?) as electrics will go in first anyway. Thanks!

 

[trowelmonkey1]

as far as i'm aware you only need fireborad if there is a room above the ceiling, i can't tell from your pic but it doesn't look like it, so insulate it and use normal 12.5mm board IMO.

tilebacker or aquapanel behind your splashback will certainly be the best option but may be overkill for this purpose, green moisture resistant board will be considerably cheaper and will be fine once tiled and grouted, the moistureboard might need some prep before tiling though because of its water resistantcy.

all above only in my opinion though

 

[advancemaintenance1]

id just use 12.5 mm standard board and dont skim where you will tile once tiled area is grouted and sealed it will be waterproof. tiles stick better to board than they do to skim

 

[mazears]

Yeah trowelmonkey thanks 4 info,there is a room above half the kitchen so this needs to be fireboard but other half is pitched roof. I know moisture board is more pricey but thinking it was best as high moisture content within kitchen area. Didn't realise i could tile straight onto plasterboard but will make it easier if so. Everybody here seems to be mentioning the plasterboard scenario instead of sand/cement. Is this because its more immediate and easier,was just bit concerned about the boards not being flush on the brickwork - air pockets between dot dab etc. in comparison to solid rendered walls! Also am i best tiling behind kitchen worktop units from floor upwards to the bottom of wall cupboards, or just as well the much smaller area between work surface and bottom of wall cupboards?

Just another question while i'm here-Although i'm trying to suss what to do with the kitchen wall,what is also the best option for the bathroom area. Aquaboard top to toe for shower area. One half bathroom will be studded other can be solid wall. A combination then of aquaboard and moisture resistant?

 

[keyplayer]

am i best tiling behind kitchen worktop units from floor upwards to the bottom of wall cupboards, or just as well the much smaller area between work surface and bottom of wall cupboards?

I prefer to tile down to fitted worktops, gives you a bit of wall runout to play with that way. If you plan in advance, you can do all your tiling bar the bottom course before fixing the floor units and worktops, and then after fixing cut your final bottom course to fit.

 

[stevethespreader]

if it was my kitchen i would float it with hardwall then skim i would d&d the reveals and leave about 11mil lip to float off of, in my opinion you cant beat solid walls especially for fixing units

 

[Richard C]

if it was my kitchen i would float it with hardwall then skim i would d&d the reveals and leave about 11mil lip to float off of, in my opinion you cant beat solid walls especially for fixing units

Trying to catch up a bit so haven’t read the thread in any great detail but I’ve got to agree with the hard plaster finish 10,000%, be it render or base plaster.

I won’t D&D boards unless I really have to & would NEVER, EVER do it in my own property.

 

[Richard C]

Just another question while i'm here-Although i'm trying to suss what to do with the kitchen wall,what is also the best option for the bathroom area. Aquaboard top to toe for shower area. One half bathroom will be studded other can be solid wall. A combination then of aquaboard and moisture resistant?

Moisture Resistant PB not really essential in a kitchen although it won’t do any harm if you really must use boards. You can tile straight onto PB & it will take considerably more weight than when it’s plastered; unlikely you’ll never get them off again without destroying the boards but that may not be a consideration! If you want to plaster MR, it must be primed or the plaster won’t stick. Tile down over the worktops as advised.

For the bathroom you can tile straight onto solid plaster; some will advise tanking in wet areas but unless it’s a wet room, not really essential. If you must use boards, only ever use MR but they must be tanked in wet areas; far better to use a decent tile backer board. Only use quality trade waterproof adhesive & grout (not the cheapo DIY stuff); must be flexible for boards & make sure you pick the right adhesive for the tiles your using.

 

[trowelmonkey1]

Rich and Steve got it covered there i think!