Repair care or Ronseal two part wood filler?

[Gossamer]

Hi,
I've a badly rotten window cill to repair and am looking at the Repair Care products.
The product and primer is £85 whereas I have Ronseal wood hardener and two-part filler already.
Is there a compelling reason to use the Repair care products?
Ta.

 

[johnny2007]

No.
Go ahead removing all rotten wood, treat with wood hardener, fill gaps, prime and paint.

 

[opps]

Photos would help.

Two part polyester fillers do not allow for any movement and will be likely to fail in time. Repaircare, is more expensive than TimbaBuild though. The lower quality double barrel RepairCare gun is shockingly poor quality (plastic tat). The Timbabuild gun is similarly priced but very good quality.

CHEMFIX Total Service

epoxy filler for professional wood restoration

www.chemfix.co.uk

An advantage of the RepairCare range is that they have a wider range of products, such as an epoxy that will cure at very low temperatures.

Edit---- if the sill is really bad, you may need to splice in some new timber using repairCare or TimbaBuild.

 

[Gossamer]

Thanks. The picture doenst really help as the paint still covers the surface, albeit its cracked. My key goes in maybe 15mm in the badly affected area.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

At 15mm you'll have a lot of punky wood to cut out - chisel then stiff steel wire brush is best. If possible I'd splice in a repair piece, but you'll need a hand plane to take that back to the level of the original

 

[Gossamer]

I was going to router it out to stable timber then push on from there.
I'm wondering that as the timber is very old, and presumably relatively stable, that the two-part route might be ok.
Its hardwood too which I assume is less prone to movement?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Hardwood is wood, so it still moves, and splices should ideally ways be in the samr or a similar species - a pine splice in oak won't work because the timbers mive at different rates.

TBH it matters little what you use to get the old stuff out, but a router won't be happy cutting the punky stuff out, the base of the router makes it difficult or impossible to get into corners, and you can also have the problem of supporting the base of the router unless you make up an offset sub base - hence the chisel and stiff wire brush approach until you at least have the bulk of the waste out. After that getting a flat surface to glue to is reasonably important if you are able to glue in a splice which is why I've often used a hand plane (not a power planer), but either way I go belt and braces and also use screws (stainless steel or brass, as it is exterior) and i then use the minimum amount of filler. A timber splice is far less likely to just drop off at some time in the future than a big gob of filler, but if you really must use filler drive some nails or screws into the wood to help anchor the filler