Repairing external Fascia board.

[bluenun20]

My wooden Fascia boards are in generally good condition but a couple of the corners are looking rotten.

I want to cut out the rot and cut in a new piece and undercoat it and exterior gloss coat it.

What type of wood should I buy to do this?

 

[Burnerman]

I've used exterior grade 18mm ply for mine....treated with Sadolin, they are over 25 years old now, and still sound.
Being a sad person, I've capped the external corners with 50mm aluminum angle - keeps the wet out of the end grain.
John

 

[ree]

You should post pics of the rotten fascia areas - we dont know if its a flat roof or how its detailed or how extensive the rot is. Sometimes the rafter tails are also rotted.

What size/section is the present fascia?

 

[bluenun20]

You should post pics of the rotten fascia areas - we dont know if its a flat roof or how its detailed or how extensive the rot is. Sometimes the rafter tails are also rotted.

What size/section is the present fascia?

Here are a couple of pictures.

The Fascia boards are 190mm x 25mm.

There is no flat roof, all tiled.

 

[foxhole]

Just done mine with 16mm black grained pvc, no rot ever.

 

[ree]

A number of faults can be seen:

The painting was not applied in the correct number of coats. Maybe the wood was not prepped either?

The left hand side of the mitre in pic 2. shows what looks like a repair piece that has previously been inserted.

It would pay you to go around all the fascia and barge boards and test them with a thin screwdriver - look for soft rot below the paint job.

The verge tiles (?) do not come far enough out - this is perhaps allowing water to trickle down and return on to the fascia or barge board.
(FWIW: the underfelt (in pic 2.) has been brought too far out - it should be kept back from the pointed edge.)
The make-up timber pieces at the foot of the barge boards have failed (they usually do) and allowed water in and rot to ensue.

Cutting in a repair piece of fascia is simple enough - you come back a couple of rafter tails and splice in the new piece. Roughly speaking, this is what you would do to splice in a piece of barge board. Depending on how much you intend to use then a sheet of ply can be ripped, but for short pieces then a length of timber might do?
However, i think your woodwork is perhaps beyond a little remedial work.

You might have to disturb the tiles and pointed verge, and drop the guttering - and once repair pieces begin to be too many and too long then its time to consider fascia and barge replacements.
As mentioned above, the black grained PVC might be the way to go.

Note: what i'm saying is speculation based on two limited pics.

 

[bluenun20]

A number of faults can be seen:

The painting was not applied in the correct number of coats. Maybe the wood was not prepped either?

The left hand side of the mitre in pic 2. shows what looks like a repair piece that has previously been inserted.

It would pay you to go around all the fascia and barge boards and test them with a thin screwdriver - look for soft rot below the paint job.

The verge tiles (?) do not come far enough out - this is perhaps allowing water to trickle down and return on to the fascia or barge board.
(FWIW: the underfelt (in pic 2.) has been brought too far out - it should be kept back from the pointed edge.)
The make-up timber pieces at the foot of the barge boards have failed (they usually do) and allowed water in and rot to ensue.

Cutting in a repair piece of fascia is simple enough - you come back a couple of rafter tails and splice in the new piece. Roughly speaking, this is what you would do to splice in a piece of barge board. Depending on how much you intend to use then a sheet of ply can be ripped, but for short pieces then a length of timber might do?
However, i think your woodwork is perhaps beyond a little remedial work.

You might have to disturb the tiles and pointed verge, and drop the guttering - and once repair pieces begin to be too many and too long then its time to consider fascia and barge replacements.
As mentioned above, the black grained PVC might be the way to go.

Note: what i'm saying is speculation based on two limited pics.

This property was built around 1988 so I do not know if they prepared the wood correctly or how many coats of paint were applied.

Picture 2 is around a bay window, yes the undercloaking does not come out as far as I would have liked.
I am going to replace that section and the whole 2 meter length above the window, put new roofing felt in and raise the gutter level as it is too low.
I will replace the undercloaking and repoint the tiles both sides of the bay.