Replace hob with freestanding electric cooker...

[bpowell555]

How to cut out the worktop - 40mm beech - where the hob is to slot in a freestanding cooker instead? Would I be better off contacting a pro, or will a jiggy and guide do ok with a down cutting blade?

Cheers!!

 

[Scrit]

If the worktop is already in place it's going to be an awkward job. If I absolutely had to I'd take the carcass out first then go circular saw on straight edge for the main part of the cut, fine upcut blade on jigsaw (no orbit) for most of the rest and finish off with a Fein Multimaster and an e-Cut blade. A downcut blade on the jigger will almost certainly bend in cut but an upcut won't and any spelching can be dealt with by sanding a chamfer onto the top edge of the cut. A router won't get near enough to the back wall to do the full cut on it's own - and trying to finish the cut from the end of the routed path will leave a visible bump in all probability - it will also be incredibly messy (at least my saws attach to the dust extractor). You might also be able to do the job with a Japanese-style pull saw if you are experienced enough to cut square with one (surface finish would be good, too). Problem is the edges will still require some edge finishing with a hand plane (low-angle block or smoother) and the last bit near the back/wall will be a nightmare to do in situ it will still require some fettling to get a good surface finish. You might be lucky and get away with an edge you can sand, but I wouldn't guarantee it.

If someone asked me to do this job as a payer I'd probably think twice about taking it on as every little error will be glaringly obvious.

Scrit

 

[bpowell555]

Fook! You make it sound like its damn near impossible! Is anyone else more confident? I guess with the benefit of a little positive thinking I could kid myself into thinking the first half to two thirds of the cut were standard worktop cutting procedure - maybe. But it sounds like the last bit will be unlikely to get a perfect - and possibly not even good - finish...

Can anyone give me a boost - preferably from experience or should I cancel the order given I don't right now want to fork out for a new worktop too!

The only other thing I was thinking is if there is some kind of finishing plate like maybe in brushed steel that could be screwed to the end - covering bad work in the process and imparting a modern look ... or beading!

(edit: ) Or is the concensus that this sort of thing looks sh*te?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hardware/MetalEdging/d170/sd3009

(edit2: ) Ps. thanks for the headsup re Japanese pull saw - v. interesting

 

[bpowell555]

For my own reference if nothing else this thread contains some excellent posts:

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9413&view=next&sid=d0ad51219fef4b071578b5bf26044ca8

 

[bpowell555]

I realised only one cut would need to be made in situ as after the first cut the "offcut" could be removed! (to a bench)

Right now I'm thinking of using the jiggy with a down cut. I checked and the worktop is chamfered. If I blend it in well enough this should cover up most minor mishaps. Then if it goes really pear shaped I can use the capping...

If I can get the other bit off the wall then what is the best way to cut that? I can take it outside so mess wouldn't be a problem. Not had too much joy with multiple passes with a router in the pass though the finish is great (some visible ridges.. guess they could be planed off though)... What would the finish be like with a circular saw? Or should I stick with the trusty jigsaw

Cheers guys.

 

[Builder.Bird]

Hi,

Is the worktop a straight section or does it have another section joined to it?
If it is a single section I would advise taking it out and cutting it face down with a circular saw and a guide batten. Make sure when you cut the top that you start from the postformed edge and cut towards the back!!! If you dont you will get blade breakout at the postformed edge and it will chip it severely.

If you have to cut it in-situ I would advise using masking tape on the top to protect it from the jigsaw base and to mark your cutting line with a pencil or fine marker pen. The jigsaw (WITH A BRAND NEW DOWNWARD CUTTING BLADE) will only cut so close to the wall, so I would advise you to then use a very sharp handsaw and only apply pressure when cutting and ease off when you draw the saw back to avoid upward chipping of the laminate.

Once you have made the cut, remove the other section of the worktop and cut it upside down starting at the postformed edge and cutting towards the back with a circular saw. Use a guide batten to assist you in cutting as straight a line as possible. Remember to protect the surface of the worktop from the clamps when you clamp the batten on. The other way to fix the guide batten is to simply screw it to the underside of the worktop making sure the screws are not too long that they come through the surface.

Good luck and post again if you are unsure about anything that I have written.

 

[Scrit]

Worktop end caps are available, like these but they are really designed to be used with post formed rolled edge laminate tops, not solid wood tops. And as you saifd 40mm BEECH I assumed that you meantsolid wood and not laminated chipboard.

If you use a downcut blade in a jigsaw then expect it to warp in the cut - these blades are designed to give you a good surface edge finish on things like sink or hob cut-outs in laminated tops. With solid wood you aren't in the same situation of trying to get no chip-out on the edge as you can chamfer the edge to remove minor spelching, so using an anti-splinter guard on the jig saw and no/minimal orbit will give you a very clean cut requiring minimal clean-up. As you'll see the sawn end an upcut will be a better bet as they are working in tension, just like a Jap saw, and will therefore be less likely to bend in the cut. If you don't believe me try it on a worktop offcut before you begin. There are some blades like these which will allow you to get right in to the wall:

(De Walt DT2074). But you'll still struggle to saw the last little bit (you might well wreck a few blades if you hit the wall or tilib]=ng with the blade teeth), especially if your kitchen was tiled after the worktop went in.

Of course if you can get the worktop out (without breaking the tiling) doing the cut with a circular saw and fine-toothed blade from beneath would yield good results

Good luck - you have taken on a job which is hardly the easiest.

Scrit

 

[big-all]

the dewalt blade that scrit shows above is the way i would go

but beware i have a dewalt a ryobi and a bosch and it dont fit in the ryobi or bosch
ryobi has a "bar" in front that fouls the blade
the bosch you cant insert the blade as the base plate gets in the way as you have to insert and rotate 90% to locate


can you not cut the front edge of the cutout and as much off the back edge in the centre to try and free the worktop up enough to get it off the wall 12mm which will help you cut cleanly without damage to blades or tiles

 

[bpowell555]

Just to clarify the worktop is solid beech. I know how tough the stuff is from when I cut some beech skirting

Really like the dewalt blade pictured. However the jiggy is a bosch so it sounds like it may not fit.

Good suggestion re cutting the bit of the worktop around the existing hole. I can then take the left hand piece off and cut it on a bench.

To clarify: its an l-shape so I don't think I could move the righthand part. (Sink in the way for starters..)

Good advice also re using tape to protect the surface from the jigsaw... thanks.

Maybe it was a good thing I bought that tenon saw after all... hmm although the blade holder will mean continuing a straight cut is going to be difficult. Any recommnendations for a good handsaw in these cicrumstances, assuming the dewalt blade is a no-go?


Difficult job? Too bl**dy right! Especially when the pros respond they might not take it as there's a high chance of making a mistake!!!!

the bosch you cant insert the blade as the base plate gets in the way as you have to insert and rotate 90% to locate

--- just a thought, can you take the baseplate off? Guess not, will have a look tonight.


Cheers all. Will be easier to make the in-situ cut having chopped off the other bit around the middle of the cut-out. Brilliant tip!


Rgds.

 

[Diyisfun]

I cant see a problem, as you are prepared to have an edging strip. You can buy L section aluminium or make your own out of timber. So all you need do is cut it as well as you can & take time with the edge trim.

 

[bpowell555]

btw, worktop caps - only if it goes *really* badly

Cooker should be delivered this sunday - so concreting below units this week and hacking on saturday... all ready for easy connection (by a part p pro obviously)

 

[big-all]

just a thought, can you take the baseplate off? Guess not, will have a look tonight.

funny you should say that
i was thinking along the lines of loostening the base plate pushing back and max tilt to one side to see if its works

will report back later

 

[Scrit]

Difficult job? Too bl**dy right! Especially when the pros respond they might not take it as there's a high chance of making a mistake!!!!

It's the joy of taking on what a customer would regard as a £100 job, having a problem, then finding yourself installing two new pieces of solid worktop, re-installing the sink, breaking a tile or two getting it all out then having to retile and all at your expense as you are the professional - too right it's a nightmare job! Definitely one to be done on a time and materials no come-back basis, methinks! The reason I say that is that I've done a couple of jobs like this in the past (succesfully, I might add) where the proper way to do the repair was to take out the worktop, only the customer wouldn't pay for it to be done the right way. And if the worktop is solid surface (like Corian) with a machined-in drainer it gets expensive if you make a pig's ear of it. Once bitten...... ......

the bosch you cant insert the blade as the base plate gets in the way as you have to insert and rotate 90% to locate

--- just a thought, can you take the baseplate off? Guess not, will have a look tonight.

Yes, the baseplates on most jigsaws will come off (my Metabo certainly does as did it's predecessor DW Indusrial), but if you do that how are you going to hold onto the mad jittering electro-monster you've just created? Oh, I see, press the base plate down against the worktop - hold on a mo........

If you need a saw to get into the corner you could do worse than try a Japanese pull saw like a Bear or Shark brand (I believe that even B&Q stock them at £10 to £15 or so) - you need a crosscut saw but not the ultrafine dovetail ones as they'll take forever to finish the cut. Hit a tile, though, and you'll knacker the teeth as they are relatively fragile

Scrit

 

[bpowell555]

Cheers Scrit!

Yes, the baseplates on most jigsaws will come off (my Metabo certainly does as did it's predecessor DW Indusrial), but if you do that how are you going to hold onto the mad jittering electro-monster you've just created? Oh, I see, press the base plate down against the worktop - hold on a mo........

Reckon I'd put it back on again after I fitted the blade

Didn't get a chance to look tonight but its sounding good...

Should really take it all of and take it apart, cut it and refit it... but.. hmmm

 

[big-all]

ok my bosch is a green un if you have a blue un with the little lever you wont have to rotate

the blade wont fit in my bosch no matter how loose or angled the base plate is
the base plate is also secured internaly as in i need to open the machine up for accsess

another point if the blade clamp is to far from the front the blade if fitted wont cut far enough forward but i am shure dewalt have made it long enough to be fully marketable in most machines