Replace PRT2 thermostat with REV23

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Hi all

I'm trying to replace my PRT2 stat with a Siemens REV23, but the wiring diagram has thrown me slightly. (I'm no electrician/plumber, but I'm smart enough to not zap myself...I just don't want to zap my new controller)

The PRT2 has the following connections :
2 3 4 5
Com H TL N

And the REV23 has the following connections :

L L1 L2 T1 T2

Am I trying to match the connections on each unit. So far, I have :

PRT2 REV23
TL --> L
N --> L1

I would like to know, which wires to connect to T1 and T2?

Cheers
 
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I'd also like to know how to connect the wires to the Rev23 terminal block.
Instead of screws it has white plastic blocks. I can't seem to work out how to get the blocks to grip on the wires.

Cheers
 
Kipling said:
I'd also like to know how to connect the wires to the Rev23 terminal block.
Instead of screws it has white plastic blocks. I can't seem to work out how to get the blocks to grip on the wires.

Cheers

ebay the rev23 and buy a new PRT2 for about £20. They are very good stats and you would be taking a step back if the rev23 is bimetallic variety(I don't know that particular model)
 
Can we assume that you have a normal twin channel programmer at the moment and wish to use the REV23 to fully control the heating?

If so, can you let us know what colour wires you have connected to the PRT2.
 
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EliteHeat said:
Can we assume that you have a normal twin channel programmer at the moment and wish to use the REV23 to fully control the heating?

If so, can you let us know what colour wires you have connected to the PRT2.

I've got 3 wires

Red
Blue
Yellow

When disconnecting the PRT2, the connections were :

Red = COM
Blue = N
Yellow = H
(There is also a connection between TL and COM on the PRT2)

Cheers
 
The REV23 is a very good programmable room stat. I have fitted loads.

The wall stat unit is battery powered so only needs the switched live from the boiler/wiring centre and back to the zone valve to work. It does not need a permanent live and neutral to run the clock etc.

You need to press the wire holders in with a small flat bladed screwdriver whilst inserting the wires then release and they will be gripped in place.
 
gas4you said:
The REV23 is a very good programmable room stat. I have fitted loads.

The wall stat unit is battery powered so only needs the switched live from the boiler/wiring centre and back to the zone valve to work. It does not need a permanent live and neutral to run the clock etc.

You need to press the wire holders in with a small flat bladed screwdriver whilst inserting the wires then release and they will be gripped in place.

Thanks for that. I should have worked out that's how the terminal block worked.D'oh ! :)

So, can you tell me which cables do I connect to which terminals on the base ?
Which wire is the Switched Live?

Can it be wired to the mains? Or should I just leave it on battery power?

Cheers
 
OK, you will need to disable the timed heating function from your programmer and let the REV23 take over.

In order to do all of this you must be competent by the way. Isolate the power before you begin.

OK, open your wiring centre and identify the wiring to the PRT2. Disconnect the red wire and connect it to a permanent live. The heating function from the programmer is now disabled.

On the REV23 connect the blue to N, the red to L and the yellow to L1.

Power up and check, but it should all work now.
 
NO it can only work on battery power :eek:

You need a live to the unit and the switched live will go back to the brown wire on a 2 port heating valve, or whatever colour the heating call is on a 3 port valve, my memory fails me at this moment.
 
gas4you said:
NO it can only work on battery power :eek:

You need a live to the unit and the switched live will go back to the brown wire on a 2 port heating valve, or whatever colour the heating call is on a 3 port valve, my memory fails me at this moment.

White - but it doesn't matter 'cos the yellow is his current SL. So, whatever he has, it will work as before.
 
EliteHeat said:
OK, you will need to disable the timed heating function from your programmer and let the REV23 take over.

In order to do all of this you must be competent by the way. Isolate the power before you begin.

OK, open your wiring centre and identify the wiring to the PRT2. Disconnect the red wire and connect it to a permanent live. The heating function from the programmer is now disabled.

On the REV23 connect the blue to N, the red to L and the yellow to L1.

Power up and check, but it should all work now.

Thanks for the info.
Sorry, but there is no N on the REV23.
I've got L, L1, L2, T1 and T2.

Which one should the Blue go to?

Thanks again
 
You don't need it, you only need the red and probably yellow or maybe the red and black depending on how old and what type of cable it is.
 
Thanks everyone for your help.

Got it all sorted now. Looking forward to waking up warm. :)

Cheers
 

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