Replacement basin tap - which connectors?

[JM2]

I've bought a replacement tap (mono) set which actually (I didn't know) came with 2x flexi hoses in the box (wider tap connector, not monoblock size).

But, of course, the flexis are a bit short. So I need to replace or extend (I need 370-400mm lengths).

Q1. Are the compression ends supposed to only go onto cut copper pipe or are they also the correct fit to mate (without olive) onto the end of my service valves (another 1½" away).

Q2. Are there flexi extenders/extensions out there to just buy and fit if Q1 says drop straight onto the service valve thread.

Taa.
[Feeling like a newbie all over again ....]

 

[dilalio]

Your description of what you have is a bit sketchy but, if you have 1/2" female ends on the flexis with a rubber washer inside and a 15mm isolator valve with a male thread then use a couple of these to bridge the gap...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-x-15mm-rigid-trv-extension-piece-55mm/2456r

 

[oldbuffer]

1. The end of the flexis are meant to go onto a 1/2" BSP male iron. This has a flat end to seal against the rubber washers inside the flexi. They are NOT meant to go directly onto isolation valves, which have a sharp edge where the olive normally sits. You can get specialist isolation valves with flat edges.
2. Depending on the layout of your pipework, why not just buy a 2 m length of 15 mm copper pipe, and then:
2a. Cut required lengths using a pipeslice. If you have to use a hacksaw, make sure you have square edges and no burrs inside or out.
2b. Connect the new copper to the isolation valves using new olives (e.g. Screwfix 69557)
2c. Connect a 15 mm compression x 1/2" BSP male iron (e.g. Screwfix 69358) to the other end of each piece of copper.
2d. Connect the flexis to to the BSP end of the male irons.

 

[JM2]

Dilalio, yes, apologies, somewhat sketchy.
See new improved clarity, some images. Annotated with my names.
What I have (existing), what I'd like to fit to replace tapset.

oldb. Ah, good point. 1/2" BSP male iron? Is this an (new) adapter and fitted to where on my piccy? Can I ignore the silver "tap pipes" altogether?

I don't mind binning the flexis from the box but they show what I'm thinking of trying to fit.
If I use them and unless any further adapters are quite long, I'm still going to be fairly tight for length.

Your guidance is appreciated, and I'd rather get this right before I start cutting.

 

[terryplumb]

If you use the flexis that came with the tap ,how far away from the isolation valves would they be ?

 

[JM2]

Best guess, if I follow the hot (left on my pics) the end of the nut is the lower half of the joint to my 'tap pipe'

If I was really, really good and cut that stub pipe cleanly I could get away with one of those '1/2" bsp male iron'. It would be tight but if worked as neat as I'll get - if too short then a bit of new pipe and extend a smidge more.

I've not been out for parts yet in case there are some ideas out there but I think I know what I need to do now.
No rush - until I make the first cut.
I'm hoping I can get the old tap off, it seems very rusty under there.

 

[terryplumb]

Would that be two inches or so ? If so just buy what dilalio suggested above. If more than that ,I would simply extend the two copper supply pipes.

 

[JM2]

Yes, about 2". Reserved the extenders and a pack of olives for tomorrow.

Many thanks all.