81yr old widow mother just lost her vented immersion heater element.
- Element L-N 18.1ohms, L-E/N-E is 1000ohms & IR is 0.0megohms
- Cabling IR ok, EFLI << 80%, R1+R2 unchanged, terminals ok
System...
- Element - probably heatrae sadia, 25yrs old, soft water (welsh).
- HW tank - may be custom re narrow opening, bare copper, 3 jackets, over spec, replaced same time.
- HW tank - linked to downstairs solid-fuel backboiler (plain gas fire in front, E7 is 20mins a.m., 20mins p.m.).
- CW tank - solid zinc, 3ft above HW tank.
- Piping - imperial copper.
- Other - Safety stat, local IPx4 SFCU by tank
Location...
- Narrow airing cupboard next to bath, 17in gap between rising main & frame.
- Spline locked door, technically you could reach in from bath re zone.
- Local padlockable IPx4 SFCU so nice-n-safe re CW tank above.
Q - Likely RANGE of cost in NW for Element replacement?
Main stopcock.
- When off still passes a bit, but ok with tap open downstairs.
- Shared water main so can't use street stopcock.
CW-to-HW tank stopcock.
- Ornate red gate valve, but I recall it passes a little too.
Q - I assume the tank need not be replaced unless damaged?
Q - If replaced, then is a 17in wide tank available?
Cupboard entry size fixed by bath/wall/chimney.
Tank sits over chimney run, on RSJ, not relocateable due to 6in joists/floor sizing.
Q - Aside - do United Utilities repair internal stopcock for flat fee?
I ask because it is lead supply, but even UU can't figure out where.
New supply would be a nightmare re solid raft, multiple shallow 24in drains.
I can't do this job physically I'm afraid.
I'm visiting each morning & evening to carry kettle so that risk is gone, but wary of cold weather coming.
Very wary of her being stung as a lower roof is shagged, trying to find "old school" plumbers. I know BG are always the most expensive, but often wondered if they do immersion heater changes?
Thanks.
- Element L-N 18.1ohms, L-E/N-E is 1000ohms & IR is 0.0megohms
- Cabling IR ok, EFLI << 80%, R1+R2 unchanged, terminals ok
System...
- Element - probably heatrae sadia, 25yrs old, soft water (welsh).
- HW tank - may be custom re narrow opening, bare copper, 3 jackets, over spec, replaced same time.
- HW tank - linked to downstairs solid-fuel backboiler (plain gas fire in front, E7 is 20mins a.m., 20mins p.m.).
- CW tank - solid zinc, 3ft above HW tank.
- Piping - imperial copper.
- Other - Safety stat, local IPx4 SFCU by tank
Location...
- Narrow airing cupboard next to bath, 17in gap between rising main & frame.
- Spline locked door, technically you could reach in from bath re zone.
- Local padlockable IPx4 SFCU so nice-n-safe re CW tank above.
Q - Likely RANGE of cost in NW for Element replacement?
Main stopcock.
- When off still passes a bit, but ok with tap open downstairs.
- Shared water main so can't use street stopcock.
CW-to-HW tank stopcock.
- Ornate red gate valve, but I recall it passes a little too.
Q - I assume the tank need not be replaced unless damaged?
Q - If replaced, then is a 17in wide tank available?
Cupboard entry size fixed by bath/wall/chimney.
Tank sits over chimney run, on RSJ, not relocateable due to 6in joists/floor sizing.
Q - Aside - do United Utilities repair internal stopcock for flat fee?
I ask because it is lead supply, but even UU can't figure out where.
New supply would be a nightmare re solid raft, multiple shallow 24in drains.
I can't do this job physically I'm afraid.
I'm visiting each morning & evening to carry kettle so that risk is gone, but wary of cold weather coming.
Very wary of her being stung as a lower roof is shagged, trying to find "old school" plumbers. I know BG are always the most expensive, but often wondered if they do immersion heater changes?
Thanks.