Replacement of immersion element - issue re tank

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81yr old widow mother just lost her vented immersion heater element.
- Element L-N 18.1ohms, L-E/N-E is 1000ohms & IR is 0.0megohms
- Cabling IR ok, EFLI << 80%, R1+R2 unchanged, terminals ok

System...
- Element - probably heatrae sadia, 25yrs old, soft water (welsh).
- HW tank - may be custom re narrow opening, bare copper, 3 jackets, over spec, replaced same time.
- HW tank - linked to downstairs solid-fuel backboiler (plain gas fire in front, E7 is 20mins a.m., 20mins p.m.).
- CW tank - solid zinc, 3ft above HW tank.
- Piping - imperial copper.
- Other - Safety stat, local IPx4 SFCU by tank

Location...
- Narrow airing cupboard next to bath, 17in gap between rising main & frame.
- Spline locked door, technically you could reach in from bath re zone.
- Local padlockable IPx4 SFCU so nice-n-safe re CW tank above.


Q - Likely RANGE of cost in NW for Element replacement?

Main stopcock.
- When off still passes a bit, but ok with tap open downstairs.
- Shared water main so can't use street stopcock.
CW-to-HW tank stopcock.
- Ornate red gate valve, but I recall it passes a little too.


Q - I assume the tank need not be replaced unless damaged?


Q - If replaced, then is a 17in wide tank available?

Cupboard entry size fixed by bath/wall/chimney.
Tank sits over chimney run, on RSJ, not relocateable due to 6in joists/floor sizing.


Q - Aside - do United Utilities repair internal stopcock for flat fee?

I ask because it is lead supply, but even UU can't figure out where.
New supply would be a nightmare re solid raft, multiple shallow 24in drains.


I can't do this job physically I'm afraid.
I'm visiting each morning & evening to carry kettle so that risk is gone, but wary of cold weather coming.

Very wary of her being stung as a lower roof is shagged, trying to find "old school" plumbers. I know BG are always the most expensive, but often wondered if they do immersion heater changes?

Thanks.
 
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:confused: :confused:

I think you were asking how to change an immersion element :?:

How come you have Welsh water in Ireland?
 
Not a big job mate, but you need to isolate the water filling your hot water cylinder, might be a gate valve on the feed to bottom of cylinder if not go in loft, there will be a large tank, possibly an isolation valve on the cold water supply to it.

Turn this off, if there is not one, lift the ballcock in there & tie it up this will stop any more water entering the tank. Then open all your hot water taps to drain your cylinder.

You will need an immersion heater spanner to remove the existing one. You need to isolate your existing element at the spur on the wall first or turn off the electricity.

Simpy remove the existing element, take it to your local plumbing merchant & replace with same. Wiring it in is the same as wiring a plug. ;)
 
Mother is in UK, Northwest :)

Indeed, I may end up having to do it myself.

The difficulty is the box spanner - depends on whether it will budge or not, I assume it is tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. Feel like interest rates...

... all the "old school" plumbers she knew from school are dead. No justice.
 
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the difficulty is the box spanner - depends on whether it will budge or not,

You won`t know unless you try, you can`t be that concerned if you haven`t even bothered your lazy ass before posting here. Would you like me to come and do it for you? :rolleyes:
 
If you do bamber make sure to isolate the big tank not the small one, or you'll be waiting a long time for them hot taps to stop running. :LOL:
 
just wandering have you reset the overheat stat as solid fuel will cause this to trip in certain situations.
 
If you do bamber make sure to isolate the big tank not the small one, or you'll be waiting a long time for them hot taps to stop running. :LOL:

He might have a really large heating tank :eek: Have edited original reply, thanks Scouse now go out & get a job.
 
Well, while you're at it you might as well tell him that opening the hot taps is never going to drain the cylinder neither. :LOL: :LOL:
 
Well, while you're at it you might as well tell him that opening the hot taps is never going to drain the cylinder neither. :LOL: :LOL:


It won`t but it will drain enough to stop it from pouring out when undoing the immersion, to fully drain would mean opening drain valve on the bottom of cylinder ( never one there) or syphoning, to do this a length of hose is required, fed into the top of cylinder via the hot draw off connection. the hose is then fed out to a point lower than the tank then air is sucked out from the hose inducing the cylinder to self syphon, normally 2 thirds of the cylinder can be emptied using this method. Found a job yet or are you still breaking in to houses?:cool: ;)
 
Lazy... just about rebuilt the house for her and just flown in :)

I just lack the plumbing tools (never do any).
However I will pick up a box spanner tomorrow.

If no joy I will go through the plumbers.

Looking through bes co uk I see lots of 16-18" diameter vented tanks, 900mm high, so it looks like off-the-shelf may fit. More importantly I am happy to find prices are £200 when I had expected £600. Thus I can cover right through to new tank if necessary AND still buy the surprise for her (replacement heating, Rinnai 308s in place of storage heaters). Solid floors & variable ceiling height means she does not want the disruption of GCH and the existing balanced flue heaters are no thermostat, no programmer, miss-sized and in the wrong places.

Thanks.
 

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