Replacement valve for BGMVSP-23

[Joey555]

Hi

I have seen this asked a few times but the posts were a few years old so I would like to ask again. The motor head valve (excuse my terminology) I believe has failed. I believe it has failed because when I turn the power off to the unit the lever does not reset. In fact it does not move at all, its stuck pretty solid. In the past when I have turned the power off I can see the level moving. It is stuck on the mid position so I have hot water and partial heating to the radiators upstairs but not downstairs.

I tried searching for this part but all I seem to get are Drayton parts in the search results. Is this valve made by Drayton for British Gas? Can someone give me the model number for a straight replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

Joey

 

[simond]

It's a Drayton part.

Make sure the brass parts are moving freely by separating the actuator head, and checking. otherwise the new head will not solve the issue.

 

[Joey555]

Hi Simon

Thanks for the quick reply. I have taken off the head and tried to turn the valve (see image 001) by hand but it was not moving. Should I be able to turn it by hand or would I need to add some pressure using pliers? I've added another image of the head, the lever even with no power to it will not move. Is it possible that it burned out due to the valve being very hard to twist?

Thanks

Joey

 

[dilalio]

You'll need a pair of adjustables on it or a spanner. Remember to set it back to original position. A good dose of wd40 or penetration oil around gland for good measure.
Manually operating it might help free it up for the actuator but if it is jammed to buggary it'll need renewing which is fairly simply to do. You could also operate the heating controls with the actuator removed and see if that is working when off the valve body... Care with electrics at all times tho, eh

 

[oldbuffer]

They only move through about 15 - 20 degrees from heating to hot water positions, but you should be able to turn it by hand, or at least with only very gentle use of pliers / adjustable spanner.

 

[scatmanjohn]

Replace the actuator if it is not returning to its rest position when the power is off. The best way to release the seized valve is as follows :
No draining required.
Remove the tiny clip at the base of the spindle. Don't lose it.
Grab the spindle with some grips or similar.
Push the spindle into the valve body but not too far as you need to pull it back out.
Spray wd40 around the spindle and turn from side to side.
Pull spindle back into place and refit clip.
You may get a small drip whilst doing it but don't worry it should stop when the spindle is pulled back.
Good luck

 

[Joey555]

Hi All

Thanks everyone for your advice, I have rather belatedly tried a few things to understand what is going (hopefully not made anything worse!)

1. I managed to turn the valve using a plier for some light leverage and could get the central heating working.
2. After using the plier, I found I could also turn it using my fingers.
3. With the actuator off the valve, I turned the valve to the central heating position. I then turned on CH on the control panel and noticed that the actuator lever came out of the mid position and went to the H position.
4. I could move the lever on the actuator all the way to the H position and it would spring back to the W position (Power was off)
5. The only way I could get the actuator back on the valve was to set the valve to the original position and then lock the lever on the actuator to the mid positon. (Power was off)
I turned the power on but the lever did not unlock itself which according to the should have released.

Any advice on what I am describing?

Thanks again

Joey

 

[TCCHeating]

Sounds like there may be a problem with the actuator as well. Prob caused by the valve spindle being stiff.Just bite the bullet and replace the whole valve. (Actuator and body). Even if you have managed to free the valve enough to turn the spindle with your fingers, In my experience, it will soon seize up.

Also don't use wd40 as suggested in a previous reply. Wd40 will rot the seal over time causing the valve to leak from the spindle.

Those drayton valves are carp. Replacing it with a honeywell would be better than replacing it for another drayton.

 

[dilalio]

Also don't use wd40 as suggested in a previous reply. Wd40 will rot the seal over time causing the valve to leak from the spindle.

It won't. Wd40 = water displacement 40. It doesn't "rot" anything. It is even used in groundbait for fishing and as...

Those drayton valves are carp.

Then it's perfect

 

[TCCHeating]

It won't.

It will.

Rot was probably the wrong choice of word. But it will cause any rubber seal to become brittle over time.

3in1 oil would be a better lubricant.

 

[dilalio]

I'd still reach for it outta my tool bag but...

I'd still tell the customer... "New Honeywell 3-port required, I carry one on the van"...

 

[DaveHerns]

3 in 1 oil on rubber better than WD40 ?
We had a boiler engineer tell us my mother should have her Drayton MA1 valve replaced with a Honeywell but he never turned up . Are the Drayton valves rubbish as I fitted a new actuator , nice easy job and all seems OK for now, touch wood

 

[TCCHeating]

I would say the honeywells are the best of a bad bunch. Nothing is made to last anymore. Any manufacturer could bring out a premium valve at say a £200 price point if they wanted. But they wouldn't sell. The problem is that we are a throwaway nation. Buy cheap, replace often.

Plus the fact that the manufacturers make a lot of money out of selling replacement actuators etc.

Think of it like an old style 60w light bulb. It is common knowledge that the life expectancy of the bulbs could have been easily doubled or tripled with very little extra cost. But that would not be in the interests of the bulb manufacturers.

In fact. Crafty Americans would buy 230v bulbs from Europe to replace their 110v ones to make them last much longer.