Replacing an interior door frame

[OllieB83]

Hi. First time poster so I hope I'm asking this question in the right place.

We've just moved house and one of the doorways into the lounge was door free. The frame wasn't plumb and the stop was fitted for an old ledge and braced door. In addition the stop was molded as part of the old frame so I couldn't adjust it. The opening was approximately 770mm wide.

I have removed the old frame which was colossal. Each plank was 65mm wide. Having remove it I have an opening that is 900mm. I don't have room to fit a door that is any wider than 762mm

I bought a softwood door lining kit but this is only 250mm wide. My question is can I use this in conjunction with a baton to pad out the gap and finish with a decorative architrave or should I replace like for like and buy thicker planks and and construct a frame that more closely resembles the one I've taken out? Or is there another option?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[roboughton]

Pack it out to fit the frame you have/can fit in the space, It will make it easier to get it all plumb anyway. If you can make it good to your taste and are happy you have no issues. Just make sure you secure it all well.

 

[OllieB83]

Thank you.

What should I pack it with? Do you mean something like this? http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Window-Frame-Packers-18-Pack/p/180131

I assume then I screw through the frame, shims and into the masonry wall?

 

[Gerrydelasel]

No, pack it with battens, like you said in your opening post.

 

[OllieB83]

Great - that makes a lot more sense!

Thank you

 

[JohnD]

After you have battened, wedged and screwed it plumb and true, you can use expanding foam between the wall and the lining, to muffle sound, block draughts, and hold it very rigid without shaking or coming loose. You can get a pink fire resistant foam which I think is worthwhile, and will prevent spread of smoke or flame if necessary, or the ordinary yellow foam will work.

The foam is very sticky, so tape clingfilm over the visible parts of wall and lining to protect them.

To reduce waste and cutting-back excess foam once hardened, tack some wooden formers, or the architrave, wrapped in clingfilm, to cover the gap, and inject through drilled holes. I have found this is neat and forces the foam to expand into the gap without spilling out. The clingfilm means your architrave or strip will not be stuck in place, it can be removed easily, and refixed when you are ready for decorating.

In another European country, it is common to prop the linings in place and secure them just with foam, no screws, battens or wedges. I am not convinced this is best practice, but it does hold them very firmly in place. It is very handy if you have a teenage daughter who likes to flounce out and slam doors.

 

[geraldthehamster]

[edited as this thread has been moved now]