Replacing an isolation valve complications

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Hi guys,

I've got a leaky isolation valve. If you look at the picture, when the isolation valve is open water is leaking from where indicated. I've purchased a couple of replacement isolation valves but they are smaller, so I can't neatly join the pipe with the toilet. What is the easiest way I can fix this?
 

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Measure your existing isolator, go for a trot round the shops til you find one the same size.

Or try tightening the top nut on that one a bit, or take it off, clean it up & refit with some boss white and/or ptfe
 
Sometimes they leak when overtightened.

A good plumbers merchants should be able to supply a matching size.

Blup
 
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As @oldbuffer linked to, you don't have a isolation valve, you have a service valve. It has a longer 1/2"bsp tail on it that will match you current one.

It probably isn't leaking from the bottom part of the tail though if that PTFE tape is anything to go by, I'd try a new 1/2" fibre or rubber washer in the nut first.

Just make sure the fibre/rubber washer is in place and hand tighten and then nip up in 1/4 turn stages with an adjustable.
 
The service valve unscrew itself from where you have the arrow when you overtighten the connection to fill valve,
 
the service valve unscrew itself from where you have the arrow when you overtighten the connection to fill valve,

Can't say I've ever seen that in all the years I've worked with them. Only ever seen that once on a full flow ball valve where the valve itself split at the valve body where the ball is inserted and that was because a pair of vice grips were used to grip that part when loosening. I would expect the fill valve's shank to go before that would loosen, unless it's been well attacked but hey never say never.
 
I would change the fill valve for one with a brass tail - then you'll get a good connection. I personally have no faith in plastic threads.
 
Can't say I've ever seen that in all the years I've worked with them. Only ever seen that once on a full flow ball valve where the valve itself split at the valve body where the ball is inserted and that was because a pair of vice grips were used to grip that part when loosening. I would expect the fill valve's shank to go before that would loosen, unless it's been well attacked but hey never say never.
I have!
 

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