After reading the excellent sticky on here it appears that my reason for having only hot water and no heating is that the diverter valve is faulty on my system. It is an old system compromising a Thorn Emi back boiler, cold water header tank, hot water tank, I think the hot water is gravity fed and the heating is obviously pumped, the pump is working fine. I put the diverter valve in manual and my heating started working again. The valve is Honeywell Sundial Y Plan 3 position divertor valve (so it says on the metal cover anyway). The motor on top of the valve is a synchron motor. It has some digits on the top but I cannot read them for bad access, although I could get a mirror or something. I was just wondering is this motor all I ask for at a plumbers merchant, as the sticky mentions that the Synchron motor is widely sold in DIY sheds. Or am I much better off getting the number somehow. I would like to try and just replace the actuator as mentioned in the sticky, as replacing the whole lot would probably be major grief and require a plumber. Although I will if the valve is leaking as the sticky mentions.
If there's a little bump on the top of the motorised valve head (only for Honeywell valves), it means you can remove the head (actuator) from the body to replace it without getting wet. The mechanics of the heads do wear out and jam, but you can just change the motor. (Synchron motor is sold widely, even in diy sheds).
Sometimes it's easier to take the head off to get it into an easier position for you to fiddle with the two wires to change the motor, then put the head back when done.
You can use an ordinary flat bladed screwdriver for the motor and head screws, but for the fairly recent ones a magnetic T15 Torx screwdriver works better.
If you change the motor with the head off, wiggle the lever to help seat the motor .
If you notice any moisture leaking from the valve body shaft, it probably will have got into the head and rusted it, and possibly the switche(s) as well. You need a whole new valve, and that means draining the system.
Isolate the mains power from the heating system before you start any work.
Any help please?
If there's a little bump on the top of the motorised valve head (only for Honeywell valves), it means you can remove the head (actuator) from the body to replace it without getting wet. The mechanics of the heads do wear out and jam, but you can just change the motor. (Synchron motor is sold widely, even in diy sheds).
Sometimes it's easier to take the head off to get it into an easier position for you to fiddle with the two wires to change the motor, then put the head back when done.
You can use an ordinary flat bladed screwdriver for the motor and head screws, but for the fairly recent ones a magnetic T15 Torx screwdriver works better.
If you change the motor with the head off, wiggle the lever to help seat the motor .
If you notice any moisture leaking from the valve body shaft, it probably will have got into the head and rusted it, and possibly the switche(s) as well. You need a whole new valve, and that means draining the system.
Isolate the mains power from the heating system before you start any work.
Any help please?
