I wonder if some of you guys would mind giving me some pointers on the best way to finish off the work I'm having to prepare for fitting my shower tray on a concrete floor please ? I've posted this in the Building Forum as it seems more apt than the Plumbers Forum and I've attached some pics to hopefully help explain what I'm on about:-
The narrow piece of channel (where the shower trap is temporarily placed) is newly cut by me. The rest of the channel to the right (albeit widened to expose the existing DPMso I can join onto that) is what existed and was completely loose (due to the old CH & water pipes being in that space, unwrapped and no DPM replaced !) so has been removed all around the house and reinstated with a newly attached DPM.
The issues I am not sure of are as follows:-
1. There seems to be two DPM's on this house (A 1980 detached bungalow) as you can see from the pic outside of the core drill exit. Is this normal for this age of bungalow ? I'm going to use a Pipesnug on the outside exit as I've done on the Bog outlet coz they look neat and my re-pointing/brick repair skills are limited to say the least - haha)
2. I know the internal DPM has to be turned up the wall on replacing it (I do that leaving loads of excess and trim it once the new concrete has cured) but what is the correct way to seal the shower waste pipe leading through the wall ? I'm getting a bit paranoid about any damp working it's way into the floor after doing a bit of the floor wrong in another part of the house and having to break it all up and start again, so I want to make sure this bit is done right coz it will basically all be under the new tray once finished.
3. Should the waste pipe be set into the concrete channel refill, or would I be better-off leaving it in an exposed narrow channel a tiny bit wider than the pipe itself ? This bit would help me a bit as well if it can be left "open" coz I'm not yet 100% certain of the final base level that the shower will be at so this would give me a bit of "wriggle-room" to adjust the height of the pipe to attach the tap onto the tray once it's in place. If it should be completely encased in the concrete, so be it. I'll just have to make sure I get the trap positioned accurately.
If it helps, the tray I'm fitting is an 1800 x 800 anthracite Mira Flight Level. Any tips or suggestions on any better way to do this (if I'm going about it all wrong - lol) would be gratefully received.
TIA
The narrow piece of channel (where the shower trap is temporarily placed) is newly cut by me. The rest of the channel to the right (albeit widened to expose the existing DPMso I can join onto that) is what existed and was completely loose (due to the old CH & water pipes being in that space, unwrapped and no DPM replaced !) so has been removed all around the house and reinstated with a newly attached DPM.
The issues I am not sure of are as follows:-
1. There seems to be two DPM's on this house (A 1980 detached bungalow) as you can see from the pic outside of the core drill exit. Is this normal for this age of bungalow ? I'm going to use a Pipesnug on the outside exit as I've done on the Bog outlet coz they look neat and my re-pointing/brick repair skills are limited to say the least - haha)
2. I know the internal DPM has to be turned up the wall on replacing it (I do that leaving loads of excess and trim it once the new concrete has cured) but what is the correct way to seal the shower waste pipe leading through the wall ? I'm getting a bit paranoid about any damp working it's way into the floor after doing a bit of the floor wrong in another part of the house and having to break it all up and start again, so I want to make sure this bit is done right coz it will basically all be under the new tray once finished.
3. Should the waste pipe be set into the concrete channel refill, or would I be better-off leaving it in an exposed narrow channel a tiny bit wider than the pipe itself ? This bit would help me a bit as well if it can be left "open" coz I'm not yet 100% certain of the final base level that the shower will be at so this would give me a bit of "wriggle-room" to adjust the height of the pipe to attach the tap onto the tray once it's in place. If it should be completely encased in the concrete, so be it. I'll just have to make sure I get the trap positioned accurately.
If it helps, the tray I'm fitting is an 1800 x 800 anthracite Mira Flight Level. Any tips or suggestions on any better way to do this (if I'm going about it all wrong - lol) would be gratefully received.
TIA