Replacing Fascia on Garage

[stevec59]

Hi All,
The Fascia on my garage is wood and fairly rotten. so I thought I would replace it with uPVC, I intend to remove the guttering, remove the rotten wood and replace with solid uPVC. The existing Fascia is 20mm thick and 150mm height, there are 2 sections, 1 back 1 front.

Access is limited as it is very close to the people that back onto the garage and they have plants, also the Garage roof is corrugated Asbestos, so I won't be climbing on that, There is just about enough room for me to get down there with a ladder.

I don't think that I'll have too much problem removing the gutter, I think the first problem is going to be removing the existing wood Fascia, although it's fairly rotten, I think most of the rot is at the bottom of the fascia, so how do I know where it is screwed \ Nailed to the garage? I'm fairly convinced that it's attached to the brick garage, the 'Beams' don't go through the garage the end in the garage.

Second problem, how do I attach the uPVC fascia, I'm going to go for solid plastic uPVC, I think that you can get some that is foam filled, but I did like the Idea of that, so I just put raw plugs in the garage wall and attach to them?

Third problem, fitting the guttering, I intend to replace the guttering, but with limited access I wasn't sure the best way to do that, I did think, do I put up the uPVC Fascia and mark out as many brackets as possible, take it down and fit brackets?
How often do I need brackets? The garage is 6m long, so I was thinking 10 brackets evenly placed if possible, dose that sound OK?

I have seen the foam corrugated infill's but not sure weather to bother, they're not cheap.

Sorry for all the questions, but first time I've done anything like this and I'm a fairly general DIY person.

Many Thanks

Steve

 

[TTCarpentry]

Access is limited as it is very close to the people that back onto the garage and they have plants, also the Garage roof is corrugated Asbestos, so I won't be climbing on that, There is just about enough room for me to get down there with a ladder.

You could use crawl boards on the roof if you need to go up there. They will help to spread your weight, and prevent damage.

don't think that I'll have too much problem removing the gutter, I think the first problem is going to be removing the existing wood Fascia, although it's fairly rotten, I think most of the rot is at the bottom of the fascia, so how do I know where it is screwed \ Nailed to the garage? I'm fairly convinced that it's attached to the brick garage, the 'Beams' don't go through the garage the end in the garage.

if its been filled and painted it maybe difficult to see the fixings. Sometimes you can see where they have been filled. But if its an old building the likely hood is that it would have been nailed, so a crow/pry bar will do the job.

Second problem, how do I attach the uPVC fascia, I'm going to go for solid plastic uPVC, I think that you can get some that is foam filled, but I did like the Idea of that, so I just put raw plugs in the garage wall and attach to them?

you'll will need to fix some backing treated battens to the wall/trusses, before you fix on PVC. If you are fixing into masonry then using Rawl plugs will be fine. You can then either screw of nail the PVC on with colour matched caps.

Third problem, fitting the guttering, I intend to replace the guttering, but with limited access I wasn't sure the best way to do that, I did think, do I put up the uPVC Fascia and mark out as many brackets as possible, take it down and fit brackets?
How often do I need brackets? The garage is 6m long, so I was thinking 10 brackets evenly placed if possible, dose that sound OK?

The problem you'll have with trying to fix brackets first is that the screws will need to go into the timber battens to ensure strength.

10 brackets would be more than adequate, normally about 800mm spacing. On span of 6m youll need a union, which will act also as a bracket. Make sure there is a fall of about 1/2 inch over that span.

Good luck
Leonne

 

[stevec59]

Thanks for the reply, why do I need to fix some backing treated battens?:-

you'll will need to fix some backing treated battens to the wall/trusses, before you fix on PVC. If you are fixing into masonry then using Rawl plugs will be fine. You can then either screw of nail the PVC on with colour matched caps.

I thought the idea of solid uPVC Fascia was so that you don't use timber?

 

[TTCarpentry]

Steve, i didn't see the 'solid' part as i was reading. Then if you use solid, say 18/20mm pvc, you could fix directly and prefix brackets, once you have established the fall, make sure you check level of fascia, dont assume dropping them down i/2inch on the fascia will give a fall as the building may be out of level.

 

[stevec59]

Brilliant, thanks for your help, will make a start next week

 

[foxhole]

You don't have to have a fall in the gutter, level will be ok, water knows which way to fall.

 

[stevec59]

That's strange because I have water sit in my gutter that is on the bungalow and I assumed it was because there wasn't enough of a drop, that was the next on the list of jobs to do after the fascia and gutter on the garage

 

[stevec59]

I'm back again! The old wooden fascia is off, bit of a job in places, it turns out the supporting beams \ joists for the asbestos roof do go though the wall and end flush with the outside wall, so the old wooden fascia had those large 'Floor Board nails' going into the supporting beams and they were difficult to get out.
I have some Bitumen paint left over from a previous job, so I thought I might as well put this on the ends of the supporting beams \ Joists.

So the question I have is, do I screw the new uPVC Fascia into the 'End' of the supporting beams \ Joists? Or Raw plugs into the wall, or doesn't really matter?
I was also wondering if I should use White GripFill on the uPVC fascia, but not sure that's really necessary?

 

[Ian H]

I'd go into the ends of the joists.

Do your PVC ones have a small return on the bottom? That might be why someone mentioned battens earlier on.

 

[stevec59]

Yes, the fascia I have bought does have the 'return' in it near the bottom, but I intend to cut that off along with the slot that I presume is for socia, I don't need the 150mm so should be OK.

I'll screw into the end of the joists as you say