Replacing Honeywell Timer & W/less Stat with Hive - wiring question for Viessmann Combi set up

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I'm going to replace a Honeywell ST9120C Timer and Wireless Thermostat with the new Hive Mini.

It would be great if someone could confirm required wiring set up for the following:-

Viessmann Boiler is Vitodens 111-W Combi Boiler

Current Honeywell is wired per the first photo and the boiler connections and wiring diagram is as per the other photos. Hive single channel set up diagram is included for good measure ;)

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As you can see from the diagram below, the ST9100 series has terminal connections that are generally the same as Hive Single Channel diagram you have posted, with just one exception. The red 'ON' wire currently in terminal 4 goes to Hive terminal 3 instead. No need to touch anything at the boiler end.

The brown loop between L and 1 should also be retained.

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I believe you should copy the wiring from your existing set-up, the exception being the red wire currently in terminal 4, should go to Hives terminal 3.

....but also, you really need to sort out the loose strands in these terminals. There is a good chance of a short here!:
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You have the problem deciding how far to go, easy to say boiler is OpenTherm enabled so may as well get an Opentherm enabled thermostatic control system.

But likely they will cost more, but although the Hive wall thermostat is cheap, it is cheap as no cleaver algarithums, and the TRV's which work with it are not cheap.

I feel a lot of what I have installed is pointless, each room should be independent, but wife leaves doors open.
 
Thanks ericmark, your message reflects a conversation I’ve had just last night with my plumber who has recommended the Drayton Wiser partly because it is Opentherm compatible.

I’ve looked into it and it appears that not all OT boilers work with all OT stats, so that’s a question he and I can’t answer, and also the current Honeywell timer is wired into the kitchen, whereas the boiler is in the garage 3m away.
I suspect that if we used OT we would end up not being able to wire to the current Honeywell location as we would need additional wiring (I could be wrong there though) so it would turn a simple swap to Hive job into a more expensive OT orientated installation which will leave a hole or blanking plate in the kitchen wall.
Lots to think about!
 
I don't have the option of OpenTherm, but back in 2019 when I moved into this house to find no way to control central heating without going outside down a set of steps, and back into the property under the main house and plug in the pump and switch on boiler, I selected a programmable thermostat which would control both CH and DHW with 2 wires, and with an extra low voltage on those 2 wires, as colours changed and the third wire was open circuit.

I selected Nest Gen 3, which I was told would work with the 4 Energenie MiHome TRV heads I already had, it did the control with 2 wires, but failed to work with the TRV heads, and has proved to be inadequate to control the main house.

The big problem is there is no one good place to measure the temperature, I am using the hall, but every middle floor room, (lowest floor for main house) has either doors to outside, or alternative heating, be it cooking, wood burning fire, or the sun through windows, it needs more than one sensing unit, Nest USA do a sensing unit 1670584863527.png but not released in UK yet, and Nest USA is very different to UK version. In the main in the UK we use a sensor built into the TRV, Hive, Drayton Wiser, Honeywell EvoHome, Tado, and others all use the TRV as the remote sensor, I do use electronic TRV heads, 61dmtMm13BL.jpg the cheap one actually works better for me, no need to find my phone to change the temperature, one button toggles between the pre-set by me comfort and Eco temperatures, or the dial can be pressed for boost or turned for new setting, where the much more expensive version IMGP8035.jpg I need to use phone or PC to set, well if you trust Nest Mini you could use voice commands, but they seem to act like mischievous little boys, not sure I would trust them with central heating.

At the moment the heating is not doing very well
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I really want the rooms warmer, but note hall,
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Nest Gen 3 is showing 2ºC higher than the TRV but in the same room, so to ensure the wall thermostat stays on in cold weather, the TRV has to be set lower than the wall thermostat, it was cold this morning, -5ºC showing for outside.

Although it says 15ºC for living room, baby alarm on floor shows 13ºC and the room does not actually feel that cold, more like 18ºC as the sun is warming it well. I have never yet lit a fire in the grate, maybe I will this year. But the location of any thermostat is important, you want it in the natural air flow, and in most rooms the TRV is in the best location to work out temperature of the room, mounted on walls it measures the wall temperature as well as air.
 
I think I'm leaning towards Hive (now picked it up from Screwfix) although I know it's shortcomings, it looks like a simple install and per ericmarks post, we won't be forking out for smart valves, will just leave the standard TRV's to do their job for now. House isn't massive, no different zones and the Honeywell wireless stat was in the hall where the Hive mini will go. We also leave our doors open as we also work from home so each room blends into the others in a temperature sense in any case.
 
In my mothers house, we fitted the electronic TRV heads, but new owners did not want them, so returned to mechanical heads before leaving, found now the lock shield had been trimmed in with the electronic heads, the mechanical worked very well.

The problem is not anything wrong with mechanical heads, but how do you know which needs tweaking the TRV or the lock shield when the TRV says *123456 so know idea what temperature it has been set to.
 

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