Replacing internal door frame/lining

[JDLDIY]

Due to structural movement in the house, it's been necessary to remove a couple of door frames which were twisted and knackered and replace them. The linings were floor to ceiling with the top panel plastered. So far I have cut the frame away to just below the plastered section and was hoping to get a carpenter in to install the new frames but he's moved!

I don't mind doing it myself but would appreciate any advice. Do I need to find floor to ceiling linings and in fact are they available?

The original linings were about 90mm (side with rebate in) by about 60mm. All the linings I have seen so far are much thinner and therefore I will need to pack the lining out against the brick/blockwork. Any tips?

I was going to fix the new linings with frame fixings (the long plastic plugs with screw in screws (10 x 100mm) does that sound about right?

I've hung plenty of doors but never fitted a door lining and it's one of those things you can't seem to find instructions on, any advice greatly received.

Thanks

 

[Scrit]

Door linings are often just built-up on site from planed stock to form the door rebates, although a timber yard should be able to supply either pre-machined lengths of stock or frame kits for standard size doors (e.g. 6ft 6in x 2ft 3in/2ft 6in with the housing joints ready cut). The tops of the jambs (the upright bits) fit into housings (grooves) cut across the head and the whole is nailed (and glued if you want extra strength) together with an extra brace being nailed across the bottom to keep the whole thing square. Before fixing saw off the horns at the ends of the head.

The frame is positioned in the opening using spacer blocks (basically just scrap stock) and drilled and screwed into the wall - I use hammer (frame) fixings in masonry and long wood screws into stud walling. Make sure that the timber is at about the same level as the existing plaster or you'll either have to start hacking away plaster or planing the backs of the architraves to get them to fit. The trick in installing is to keep the frame dead upright and not to pull the frame out of true by screwing too hard, so if needs be use more packing between the frame and the wall. The screw heads can be hidden by counterboring and filling in above the screw heads with pellets, for which you'll need a counterbore tool and a matching taper plug cutter.

Scrit

 

[JDLDIY]

Thank you Scrit, this is very helpful and confirms pretty much what I had thought. The frames I have removed were full height - they went from floor to ceiling and into the loft where they were nailed to the ceiling joists. Obviously I can see how this gives the frame more strength, but will it be OK to fit standard height frames and then box in above with baton and plasterboard? I intend to fit 44mm fire doors, so I just want to be confident that the frames will be strong enough.

How many fixings do you recommend and do you fix them to the floor as well like they used to do?

 

[Scrit]

I'd stud across the opening first and fix with three fixings/screws either side. If you put one ate the top it can be a royal pain planing off the pellet (plug)

Scrit

 

[JDLDIY]

I'd stud across the opening first and fix with three fixings/screws either side. If you put one ate the top it can be a royal pain planing off the pellet (plug

You mean you'd do the studwork for the top panel first?

What's the advantage to using these plugs over just filling the holes with filler and sanding?

 

[Scrit]

From what you wrote I assumed that you now had a floor to ceiling opening as the casings went floor to ceiling (and presumably had plasterboard nailed to them). Either way I assumed that there was a gap which you'll need to board out and to do that you'll need to insert a noggin above the casing onto which you can afffix the plasterboard.

If that is the case it would be easier IMHO to nail the noggin in place and board out the gap before installing the door casing

What's the advantage to using these plugs over just filling the holes with filler and sanding?

If the casing were from a timber which you wanted to lacquer/varnish (e.g. hardwood, show-quality knot-free softwood) rather than paint then the pellets (plugs) will blend in better. Quality work was always pelleted, not filled. Filler can also have a tendency to sink as it dries and possibly will require a second filling and sanding before painting the casing

Scrit