you have to get leading egde drivers .. or you could swap out the lan=mp holders for GU10 and have them mains powered
Not sure how leading or trialling edge makes any difference to the maximum voltage or if the switch mode system can run with low current output.
On
this page you see power supplies listed as 0 - 50W and 20W - 60W in theroy the 0 - 50W should work with LED and the 20W to 60W would not work as the LED may not be drawing enough current.
I note "Output voltage 11,5V max. 4,3A" it does not state if DC or AC or if RMS voltage.
The technical pdf is clearly for the 20W - 60W type as it refers to minimum loading it clearly states for quartz halogen bulbs.
The 12 volt LED bulb could have a simple rectifier to allow bulbs to be inserted either way and a resistor to limit the current. Or it could have a switched mode controller. There is nothing to tell us what system is used so we have no idea if it requires a 12 volt maximum or a 24 volt maximum or any other details about the bulb it simply says 12 volt.
So you may buy one make which works A1 and another may need a smooth 12 volt DC supply.
I found to my cost with CFL buying expensive well known makes does not mean they are good lamps. I got 18 x 8W Philips when these started to fail my wife got 6 x 8W of unknown make very cheap and the cheap ones were brighter and are still going and the expensive ones have all failed. It's all down to luck.
With a bulb costing 20p I was not worried but with bulbs costing £10 each it's a very different story. There are two ways to ensure the bulb is correctly supplied. One is buy the power supply recommended by bulb manufacturer i.e. same make and the other is to use GU10 where it's a standard 230 volt supply. The latter is the easy method.
Very few shops have demonstrations of bulbs you buy purely by description. As I have said I have two types of GU10 bulbs one 2W and one 3W and the two watt with three LED's gives an even light over the area lit. Where the 3W has two areas the centre is much brighter but the edges are the same as the 2W version so the 2W actually works better than the 3W.
The whole LED lighting system seems full of problems my sons house has 2 x 7W LED bulbs in living room which are ample for whole room. The kitchen has 5 x 7W GU10 spots and looks like a planetarium.
My house we replaced the fittings to take 5 bulbs each so 10 bulbs in the living room. We used 8W CFL globe type and the room was dark. We swapped to 2 x 1.4W and 8 x 3W at 100lm and 250lm in theroy 2/3rds of the lumen from the 8W lamps but the room is much brighter. Also I find it hard to work out which were the 2 original 1.4W bulbs.
I bought the bulbs from Lidi when on offer and first 2 were all that was left and second 8 were all that was left and it was pure luck that they were bright enough as if I had looked at the lumen I would have considered them not bright enough. Yet if anything they are too bright.
The old tungsten bulbs I use to keep my pets warm. I have yeast as pets and they work for me producing beer and they work so hard I think they deserve to be kept warm.
