require drawing

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i require a breakdown drawing of a divertor valve for Ariston EuroCombi SX 20 MFFICE Type C with sealed combustion chamber.
 
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You won't get one I'm afraid. Made by Giannoni. What's the problem? The spring on the diaphragm goes on the microswitch side if that's it.
 
CHEERS CHRISR WORKED A TREAT THANKYOU. BUT ON MY TRAVELS THROUGH THE INTERWEB I POSTED A FEW E-MAILS TO SPAIN AND UK AND GOT THE DRAWING FROM A GUY IN .PDF FORMAT WILL PASS THEM ON IF YOU EVER REQUIRE THEM

DIYDEN

AFTER THE DIAPHRAGM CRISIS WAS RESOLVED I WAS MADE AWARE THE SECONDARY HEAT EXCHANGER/FLOW CONTROL SWITCH REQUIRED AIR REMOVING AS THE FLOW CONTROL SWITCH DID NOT OPERATE ON DHW DEMAND. I USED THE TRUSTED 17MM AND CRACKED THE FLOW SWITCH LINE AND SHAZAM IT WORKED.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP DIYDEN. (WORTH VISITING THIS SITE HEH.)
 
Glad you got it sorted. Yes I would like to see/know where the drgs came from. Surprised it was Spain, Giannoni 's Italian!
Never heard of the air lock where you had it. Always learning!

By the way if you phone Ariston & tell them you're an installer they'll send you a cd with all the boiler drawings for all their boilers. If only the rest would do that! (Vaillant do too)
 
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Hi Guys,
This may be a day late, but it's not a dollar short.
I have the drawing and have sent it to you all.

Starting as a complete amateur, having bought a house containing this eurocombi. I have fixed 3 faults in it this year.
First I paid £80 to a cowboy who "improved it " but didnt fix it, when the was a reluctance on the part of the boiler to start up.
a week later I fixed it by replacing the Air pressure switch. And he was a "Combi boiler expert". Hah!

Next it was losing pressure, fixed by replacing the pressure release valve.

Finally, it was taking more and more water flow to get the boiler to start up.
Uh Oh!!. diagnosed as the diaphram in the divertor valve.
Yes this was frayed badly , and holed.
Well I did have trouble putting it back together as the internals didnt exactly match the diagram, I had a third spring, (small) which is not in the diagram.
Well I left out,
Decision time. do I go to the bother of installing this one with the doubt that it would work (I had already re installed it twice after reassembling it incorrectly) or go and buy a complete valve £70 - £80.

I took a chance, fired it up , and whooped for joy, yipee.
like a boy with a new toy.

well that saved me a couple of hundred quids payout to some bovine expert.
Many thanks to all the tech help at Ariston in UK, they really are very helpful.
Yes there is a CD with all the drawing of all the machines, just ask.
phone 01494 539 579 and press button 2 (Yeah your a pro , right)

best of luck

Matt
:D
 
Here is a primitive drawing of the Diaphragm end of the divertor valve.
this will help reassembly
save yourself the bother by buying the complete unit from
antares 0800 9175118

I'm told its the Antares' MUT D valves

There's also Abcott 02089975333 ask for their parts sheets
and check the orientation of the pipes.
If you really need to assemble, use this


*************
**** *
* * Top ******
**********************
__ washer

**
****
** spacer/collar, omit if missing
**

------
_
------
_
------
_ spring/ large

******
******
**** conical unit
**

----
_
----
_
----
_ spring/ medium

o_____________________o
************* diaphragm

****** slotted washer
||
||
||
||
||<-- __ top circlip , circlip goes above conical unit
||
|| <-- __ lower, circlip goes below slotted washer
||
||
|| post


Sorry this looks a bit funny.
Thats because the leading spaces get stripped out on posting
anyway, follow the order of assembly and it will be ok.
I hope this helps
 
I'm a first time buyer and as yet without a clue about any DIY to be honest. Just moved into a house with a eurocombi system and since then the pressure has been steadily falling. All's I would like to know is how to re-fill the pressure. A guy in work told me to turn a valve underneath yet this released even more pressure, obviously the release valve.
Do I need to get a plumber out or what?
Thanks DIY dudes :oops:
 
To re establish the pressure, you need to fit a filling loop(flexible pipe covered in braided wire about 12 in long)
The loop fits between a spring loaded valve on the boiler and a manually operated valve on the incomong cold water pipe near the boiler.
After fitting the loop nudge open the valve very slowly and the pressure will increase and show on the gauge.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
avago ero

It sounds like you need to replace the pressure relief valve.
This gets dirty with time and leaks
You can check this by following the pipe to wherever it drains to , outside perhaps. it will be slightly wet there, from a minute leak, one drop per minute is all that is required to drain you pressure away.
The good news is that its not too difficult if you have a little diy knowledge.
You need to
1 turn off electricity
2 drain main system, (boiler)
3 loosen nut on left of valve
4 loosen nut on right of valve
5 remove valve
6 reassemble in reverse order

If you're not confident about any of this, and if you dont have the manual explaining step 2 then it's a plumber for you.
The valve might be £12 and the cowboy should only take about 1/2 hour.


Matt
 
I have a sx 20 mffice and I don't have any manuals or drawings, can u send them to me?
 
My Eurocombi gave me trouble in the last couple of weeks, first I lost water pressure, got that worked out, now it has problem firing up. The last two days it has been completely out.
Can anybody give me some advice?
 

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