Restrenthening after taking out a section of timber.

[NHW]

Hi there, currently working on our bathroom renovation and I want to recess a vanity unit into a timber stud wall. The unit itself is 60cm wide so cannot fit in between the 32cm centers. Basically it requires to cut out an entire section of one in order to fit it in. I have all the tools required to do it but just unsure how I would put in the new timers to restrengthen the chunk that will get taken out.

Pic attached shows the existing, and where I want to place the unit

 

[NHW]

This is what I originally thought. The yellow bit would be 2 joist hangers for the top piece and then another 3 pieces of timber all together in what would essentially be a square frame going around the unit.

Just basically to ensure that the vanity unit wouldn't be bearing any load. Thank you for any advice in advance

 

[Deleted member 174758]

320mm is an odd distance for centres. What is on the other side of the wall, or is it a load bearing stud wall? (This is normally evidenced by double thickness sole plates/headers, but not always). I'd be concerned about the studwork at the bottom left of the first picture - the horizontal trimmer terminates before it reaches a vertical stud, leaving the end unsupported. It needs to be doubled up and tied into the vertical stud to the fight of the back box with a vertical piece to the floor at the other end if it doesn't already have one

TBH that wall looks to be a plasterboarded, but is it plaster skimmed on the other side? If so if you should definitely use screws to add your trimmers, not nails, as nailing risks cracking the plasterboard joints. Yes, you ideally need to install two horizontal trimmers at the top, but the PB should hold stuff together for you whilst you cut out. You will need two vertical trimming pieces to carry the PB at the sides of the cutout, but unless the weight of the vanity us excessive, a single horizontal trimmer ar the bottom should suffice

BTW forget the joist hangers, though, they are completely inappropriate and unnecessary for this type of work. Set you work lines with a laser level or a long spirit level and just use 5 x 90 or 5 x 100mm screws - that's all you need

 

[NHW]

Yes it's plaster boarded on the other side, the room on the other side is getting skimmed next week so I thought that I'd best do this install for thr vanity unit now so that if the board breaks at least then we can re-board before the skimming takes places.

Ah ok nice so two horizontals at the top, yeah the vanity unit isn't crazy heavy, probably around 10kg as it is a metal one. And then obviously with stuff inside it might be around 12-13kg overall.

Ah yes I have 2 laser levels so I can easily do that to ensure they are clean cuts along with ensuring the lines are accurate.

Should I also like get it as tight as possible to the unit so that its essential flush with the joists or should I leave some space either at the top/sides? Thank you btw

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Should I also like get it as tight as possible to the unit so that its essential flush with the joists or should I leave some space either at the top/sides?

I'd leave 5 to 10mm space all round and use packers for the final fit. Timber framig isn'tvalways perfect, as timber isn't always perfect, so a bit of leeway is always a good idea.

As you haven't yet plastered I'd recommend adding a bit of strength the the bottom of the stud wall as notedcin my previous post (somehow I missed it out so I edited it in afterwards)

 

[foxhole]

What’s the point of recessing it a few mm?

 

[NHW]

What’s the point of recessing it a few mm?

The recess of the unit itself is around 60-70mm as that's the depth of the studs. So that only around 25-30% of the unit sticks out past the finished wall (after boarding and tiling)

The unit I have is quite deep in a sense so if I was to have it directly above my sink it would stick out more than I would comfortably want.

Like when you are washing your face in the basin and then you come up and if I didn't recess it, it might catch the back of your head on your way up.

 

[big-all]

just be prepared for some sound transference as it may or may not act as a sound box
but as i say i don't know the actual effect

 

[NHW]

just be prepared for some sound transference as it may or may not act as a sound box
but as i say i don't know the actual effect

Ahhhhh as in to the room next to it? Should I maybe have a thin layer of insulation behind the box? Otherwise it would be butting up directly against the back of the plasterboard on the other side

 

[big-all]

you could try it pre sinking held on the wall and talking to someone on the other side
holding in the sunken position and talking to someone on the other side
then you have the option to easily backtrack or try noise reduction choices

 

[foxhole]

Just cut it back, easier than burying it .

 

[NHW]

Just cut it back, easier than burying it .

As in cutting the actual unit back to a shallower depth?

 

[foxhole]

As in cutting the actual unit back to a shallower depth?

Yes

 

[NHW]

Yes

ah right, its a full aluminium unit with i think the electrics (LED unit and shaver port) in the back end, so hence unable to modify.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The recess of the unit itself is around 60-70mm as that's the depth of the upright joists.

"Upright joists"? Inside a wall they are called studs - no wonder you were confusing how you use joist hangers