retiling bathroom few questions please

Joined
28 Jun 2005
Messages
583
Reaction score
0
Location
Surrey
Country
United Kingdom
Hi I have a 1933 house and I a want to tile the bathroom walls. The previous owners at some time tiled over the existing tiles. Both sets of tiles only go up the wall about 2 meters whereas we would like to tile to the ceiling. So at the moment when you look at the top of the tiles at the 2 meter level, it looks like the wall is nearly an inch back from the face of the tiles.

I would like to remove both layers back to the wall but it has been suggested to me that the back layer has probably been there a long time and when I pull this layer off I may have to use a tile chisel to remove them which will result in enough damage that the walls will have to be attended to before tiling, ie plastering or rendering. If the walls are bad I would get someone in to render or plaster if a lot needs doing as I could cope with small areas but not a whole room.

I can borrow a offset 80mm sds tile removing chisel, which I understand is the way to get them off.

My questions are:-

With the walls, how do I know whether they need rendering or plastering, or what is best?

Am I right that rendering is cement based, in which case how thin can it be and what is the best mix, just thinking in case I have only small areas to do?

If it is plastering I need, does it just need bonding or the finish coat as well or other?

With either how long would you leave it to dry before tiling, I have heard all sorts?

Would you unibond before tiling so that the moisture is not drawn out of the adhesive, or for any other reason?

We want to use big tiles maybe 12" square and there will be no bath just a shower so would I be best having full tiles up to the ceiling level but the cut tiles at floor level so that it looks best?

Whats the advice with big tiles and grout lines, ie what size grout lines would you go for with a 12" square tile? Is it small grout lines for small tiles and big grout lines for big in general or am I totally wrong?

Any help would really be appreciated.
 
Sponsored Links
My questions are:-

With the walls, how do I know whether they need rendering or plastering, or what is best?
Standard practice is to patch up with one cost plaster or rip all the existing plaster off and fix plasterboard to the walls.

With either how long would you leave it to dry before tiling, I have heard all sorts?
It's recommended to leave plaster for 4 weeks before tiling. In practice though, this rarely happens. Generally, if just patching in with one coat plaster, a week should be ok. But it depends on how thick your plaster is - if full plastering is required, then it'll take much longer to dry out.

Would you unibond before tiling so that the moisture is not drawn out of the adhesive, or for any other reason?
No, don't use PVA around showers. Once your plaster is dry, I'd recommend tanking the walls around the shower to provide a totally waterproof substrate on which to tile.

We want to use big tiles maybe 12" square and there will be no bath just a shower so would I be best having full tiles up to the ceiling level but the cut tiles at floor level so that it looks best?
Try and keep it even at top and bottom. Most important though, is that you leave at least 3/4 of a tile sitting on top of the shower tray.

Whats the advice with big tiles and grout lines, ie what size grout lines would you go for with a 12" square tile? Is it small grout lines for small tiles and big grout lines for big in general or am I totally wrong?
Generally, 2-3mm for walls and 5mm for floor tiles.
 
Thank you gcol, your answers are much appreciated.

Out of interest why don't you unibond, I thought that was supposed to be a good idea to stop moisture be sucked out the adhesive when you may have varying surfaces?

Also does it not give a better bond?

I go with your answers but would just like to understand why you do not use it.

Also can you suggest a couple of tanking products I could get, maybe even from a DIY store if you think they would be good enough quality?
 
Sponsored Links
Hi There,

Thought I would pass on my experience.

I have not long finished my bathroom (30's house) which although small, only around 1.8 x 2.3 was never the less layered with two sets of tiles on all! walls.

I used a large wide bolster/chisel and a club hammer (gloves and goggles and lots of water!!) It was bloody hard work and there was quite a bit of damage to the underlying plaster when I was finished, back to the block/brick in places.

I thought about having it plastered before re-tiling but give up after not being able to find a plasterer for love nor money. There was shed loads down in Hull doing the flood damaged houses, but non in Tyneside.

Anyway I set about reluctantly at first, plasterboarding the whole room with 8 x 4 sheets. I used a one coat type plaster initially to level up the walls before putting the blobs of adhesive/bond plaster on to support the plasterboard.

I have to say that the job was relitively straightforward and resulted in a solid and fairly level surface to tile upon (400mm x 250mm tiles I think) and was much cheaper than getting plasterers in.

I used a tanking type product around the bath before I tiled.
 
OK will do that, I'm quite proud of it, the tiles look really good. Did the floor too.

Even had to replace the external roofdeck and felt before I started which was a really big job. But better to have discovered that before I had started!
 
Are those tiles and border mosaics from Wickes?

Look just like the Travertine effect jobbies that I just redid our ensuite with - gotta love Wickes for tiles when they do a clearance line.
 
Yes they are from Wikes, got em half price! Needed about 11/12m2 memory serving correctly. Cost about £120 plus the cost of the borders which came in at about £10.00 a box.
 
love your bathroom DV, am looking for a towel stacker, can you tell me where you bought yours from
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top