Riello 40 Oil Boiler not firing up

[PeterOB]

Hi,
First time posting. Just about to move into house with dual fuel heating (solid fuel stove and oil fired boiler).
Oil tank is full, there is oil at the bleeding screw but it will not fire up. When reset button is pressed noises are made but no firing. The blast tube is dry after reset. Plate over fan is always open, should it be? Fan moves freely. The burner is a Riello 40. What could the problem be? Thanks in advance

 

[oilhead]

Blast tube dry means no oil from nozzle. If house has been empty, or run on solid fuel, nozzle line may be clogged up, check oil pressure from pump and work forward. Solenoid valve may be faulty. A faulty photocell can keep burner in prepurge. Remove photocell from control boxand see if burner fires, if so then replace photocell.
Plate over fan on later burners is fixed to supply correct air to burner. If their is a hydraulic jack from the pump, then this could be jammed.
A picture of the burner would enable better reply.

 

[PeterOB]

Thanks for quick reply.
I removed photocell from control box, still no joy.
Please see attached photos.
When bleed screw is open there is only a trickle of oil, should it be a stronger flow?

 

[Terrywookfit]

Quality !! Well maintained !

 

[PeterOB]

Isn't it just..

 

[Terrywookfit]

Is the motor actually spinning.?

 

[PeterOB]

It makes a buzzing sound, then clicking.
I can move fan with screwdriver, no movement otherwise. The plate over fan does not move.
The water pump runs.
The house has been unoccupied for just over a year.

 

[Terrywookfit]

Check motor capacitor and if ok check oil pump is not too tight .

Or loosen oil pump and see if motor spins.

Preferably Both.

 

[oilhead]

As Terry says. This burner has a fully closing air damper, but it may have been disconnected and the plate fixed. The hydraulic rams often leaked and later models dispensed with this. After standing for over a year, I would suggest that you get a technician to give it the (more than) once over.

 

[BoilerBob]

A really well kept old boy but can be sorted as terry says check the capacitor
if no good change it then if it’s all spinning check oil flow should be more than a dribble may need blowing out when flow is established check oil pressure should be 5 bar washing pressure then jump up to working pressure
which is proberbly about 115psi I think oilhead will maybe know as I haven’t got my work book with me. Good luck. Bob

 

[oilhead]

Try flicking the fan when the burner motor buzzes. If capacitor, then it will probably spin.
If you have a pressure gauge, then 125 is nearer the mark, but either will work with the right air setting.
After a years inactivity the whole boiler really needs a good look at. If the burner is really crap, then a replacement is quite reasonable as long as the boiler is sound. These beasts run for years, I service two that must be 25 years plus and still run at over 90%nett

 

[PeterOB]

Hope you're all keeping well and thanks for all your replies earlier in the year.
I am only getting around to looking at the boiler now as it gets colder. The stove is the main source of heat.
I removed capacitor and replaced it as it had a date of 02/2001 on it and a noticeable bulge towards the top.
Now it seems I have no power at all at the burner, no red light or noise of any kind.
Is this a safety feature or did I dislodge something important?

 

[oilhead]

Check the wiring in the control box base, and any fuse. You may have shorted something.

 

[PeterOB]

Thanks for the reply oilhead.
I will check tomorrow as daylight now gone.
I'm pretty sure all the wires remained in place as I just removed the two for the capacitor.
Do you see anything out of place in the uploaded picture of control box base?
Thanks

 

[Terrywookfit]

Wiring colours are fine.

do you not have a wiring guide in control box.