Hi hope someone can help. Riello burner has stopped working. Control box making bussing noise. This stops when red button pressed in but resumes when released . Boiler doesnt fire. Any suggestions as to the fault Thanks
Riello Burner not working
- Thread starter dipappss
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Either the control box is ok and it's going to lockout at the firing up stage due to no flame being detected (for whatever reason) 20 seconds after switching on.
Or nothing happens at all at switch on, no ignition sparking no pump running, then it sounds as though the control box is the problem.
Or nothing happens at all at switch on, no ignition sparking no pump running, then it sounds as though the control box is the problem.
S
stumpydick
it is not clear from your post if the buzzing is an electrical fault, or the burner motor running, which will stop when lockout is pressed.The burner motor running [if that is what the buzzing is], without any ignition attempt, is a symptom of photo cell failure.
Hi thanks for the reply. Have tried changing control box and changed capacitor without success. Bussing has now stopped . When red button pressed still doesnt sound like normal but seems to be going through cycle then control box cuts out. Vent on side of burner doesnt open. Ran out of oil last year and while bleeding the system the vent would have opened before cutting out but is doing nothing now. Could it just be fuel pump ? my initial thoughts were that it was electrical, you could feel the control box vibrating and i had the impression the burner was doing nothing although with the fuel pump off and the button pressed i can seen the burner turning
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Thanks Have checked coupling and it seems ok.Have tried another one which although not new again fits tight and doesnt appear to have any slippage.If its the pump or coupling not working properly and not delivering fuel would the vent on the side still not open as when i run out of fuel, before cutting out.I seem to remember when prevously bleeding the fuel line that the vent always opened and then shortly after because of the air in the fuel it would cut out. Vent isnt opening just goes to cutting out
What model burner are we talking about?
I take it that the "vent" is the semi-circular(ish) cover that shuts off the air inlet to the burner fan when the burner isn't running. If it is and it isn't opening then try bleeding the line to the little cylinder that is attached to it. The "vent" should open by using fuel pressure from the pump. If it doesn't open, lack of combustion air will cause "lock-out" as you describe. I wouldn't try anything else until you get the "vent" to open.
( If you have taken the "vent" assembly to pieces, make sure that BOTH brass bushes are refitted. If not it will jam.)
Have fun!
I take it that the "vent" is the semi-circular(ish) cover that shuts off the air inlet to the burner fan when the burner isn't running. If it is and it isn't opening then try bleeding the line to the little cylinder that is attached to it. The "vent" should open by using fuel pressure from the pump. If it doesn't open, lack of combustion air will cause "lock-out" as you describe. I wouldn't try anything else until you get the "vent" to open.
( If you have taken the "vent" assembly to pieces, make sure that BOTH brass bushes are refitted. If not it will jam.)
Have fun!
Thankyou for your reply. Have now tried new pump and coupling without success. Burner just doesnt sound as normal. Its an r40 g5 burner about 15yrs old and maybe just had it. Semi circular vent on right hand side not opening, apart from not opening i dont think burners running properly as part of the cycle leading up to the stage where the vent would have opened. If that makes sense. Will try bleeding cylinder to vent Thanks again
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It is not necessary to vent the hydraulic jack.
Have you checked the fuel supply?
You need to check the oil pressure to know what is happening.
50psi on wash, then 100+ when ignition activated
Have you checked the fuel supply?
You need to check the oil pressure to know what is happening.
50psi on wash, then 100+ when ignition activated
It would be nice to get a fuel pressure reading from the fuel pump but I take it that you do not have the gauges for this?
The manual for this burner is available on the Riello web-site if that helps.
http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/
I take it that you have done fuel availability checks. i.e. does fuel flow from the pump pressure test point or vacuum gauge port on the fuel pump? Check this with the power off. It's possible to have air locks in the pump or pump line. See figure 1 of the manual. If there is no fuel here check tank / filters etc. If there is fuel (and you don't have a gauge with a manifold) have a container like a small oven dish or an aluminium take-away food container and rag handy, loosen the pressure gauge test point, run the pump and let the air / fuel blow out. It's best to have an assistant for this so that they can switch the power off when you scream at them!
The "vent" as you call it is the "air- damper" there are three main parts to this. The hydraulic jack, the mobile damper and the fixed damper. (See manual page 7) The fixed damper should be set according to the output of the burner (see the manual page 5). The mobile damper is opened by fuel pressure from the pump operating the hydraulic jack.
A quick check that you could do, is to remove the two screws that hold the hydraulic jack and mobile damper in place and then remove them from the burner. Do not disconnect the fuel pipe to the hydraulic jack. (REMEMBER TO RETAIN THE TWO BUSHES THAT I MENTIONED BEFORE!) Then, with the damper laying beside the burner you'll get all the combustion air that you need. So, WITH THE BURNER STILL MOUNTED TO THE BOILER!) try to fire the burner up.
Let us know what happens.
The manual for this burner is available on the Riello web-site if that helps.
http://www.rielloburners.co.uk/
I take it that you have done fuel availability checks. i.e. does fuel flow from the pump pressure test point or vacuum gauge port on the fuel pump? Check this with the power off. It's possible to have air locks in the pump or pump line. See figure 1 of the manual. If there is no fuel here check tank / filters etc. If there is fuel (and you don't have a gauge with a manifold) have a container like a small oven dish or an aluminium take-away food container and rag handy, loosen the pressure gauge test point, run the pump and let the air / fuel blow out. It's best to have an assistant for this so that they can switch the power off when you scream at them!
The "vent" as you call it is the "air- damper" there are three main parts to this. The hydraulic jack, the mobile damper and the fixed damper. (See manual page 7) The fixed damper should be set according to the output of the burner (see the manual page 5). The mobile damper is opened by fuel pressure from the pump operating the hydraulic jack.
A quick check that you could do, is to remove the two screws that hold the hydraulic jack and mobile damper in place and then remove them from the burner. Do not disconnect the fuel pipe to the hydraulic jack. (REMEMBER TO RETAIN THE TWO BUSHES THAT I MENTIONED BEFORE!) Then, with the damper laying beside the burner you'll get all the combustion air that you need. So, WITH THE BURNER STILL MOUNTED TO THE BOILER!) try to fire the burner up.
Let us know what happens.
Hi thanks for the replies. There is fuel to the new pump but not creating the pressure. Have opened damper but still not working. I get the impression that its the burner as it just doesnt sound right. How fast should it be spinning the pump. When i look with pump of and button pressed its spinning quite slowly. Thanks again
We are getting somewhere! The motor is rated at 2,850 r.pm. if you don't have the gear to measure it, the term "going like the clappers" should apply. It has to turn a crude axial fan fast enough to create quite a high air flow. So then we are down to the motor / fan assembly. ( Do not give up, all these things can be fixed!!)
Remove the aluminium cover (that the air damper is fitted to) to gain access to the fan. Check that the fan is not rubbing against anything and that it is clean. (Things like dead mice and bundles of pet fur tend to slow things down!) Give the thing a buzz with the fuel pump off and the fan cover removed. It would be nice to remove the fan impellor and run the motor on its own but the impellor will distort and will need changing.
If you still can't get the motor speed up then it's a motor / impellor change.
Remove the aluminium cover (that the air damper is fitted to) to gain access to the fan. Check that the fan is not rubbing against anything and that it is clean. (Things like dead mice and bundles of pet fur tend to slow things down!) Give the thing a buzz with the fuel pump off and the fan cover removed. It would be nice to remove the fan impellor and run the motor on its own but the impellor will distort and will need changing.
If you still can't get the motor speed up then it's a motor / impellor change.
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Why would the impellor distort?
I have changed "Hundreds" of these motors over the last 15 years,
I have only damaged one (which I accidently dropped).
What difference would it make to the motor speed by removing the fan?
ARE you a newcomer to oil burner servicing by any chance?
The impellor can be damaged if it is twisted during removal. It's unlikely that this guy has a suitable puller.
If the impellor is jamming / rubbing against something, then removing the motor will mean that any defect in the impellor area will be out of the frame. Or no?
If the impellor is jamming / rubbing against something, then removing the motor will mean that any defect in the impellor area will be out of the frame. Or no?
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