Ripping down a post

[stealthwolf]

I have a 3x2 6ft piece of timber. I need to cut it down to 3x1.5 (strictly speaking I need to slim it down by 10mm).

I tried my bahco barracuda hardpoint saw. Taking too long. My cordless jigsaw is struggling.

I don't mind a decent handsaw if it'll do the job, or a circular saw. Any other options?

 

[SammyInnit]

Find a mate with a bandsaw. Recip saw could do it but it wouldn't be neat. I've used my track plunge saw before now to take down timber to size. A circular saw could do it too. Or if you can borrow a power plane that could do it. Many options. Try your local second hand pages if it's a one off job for a decent circular saw.

 

[^woody^]

Any other options?

Buy some timber the right size?

 

[stealthwolf]

Buy some timber the right size?

It came with the gate I ordered. The current gate sticks and 10mm gap would be sufficient to avoid the new gate from sticking as it expands in wet weather.

 

[catlad]

Table saw

 

[Doggit]

Take it down your local wood yard; they'll charge couple of quid (hopefully)

 

[^woody^]

It would be quicker and less of a faff if you bring the timber to my house and I cut it, or better still I'll travel down and do it.

You could have cut it (with a spoon) in less time that it takes to read this thread. No new saws, no mates with saws, no wood yards with saws.

Get on with it.

 

[stealthwolf]

Borrowed a TS55. Amazing bit of kit. Had to flip over the wood to cut from both sides as it didn't go deep enought but good enough finish since cut side is going against the wall.

Now contemplating buying it over the DSS610 which I was saving for.

 

[SammyInnit]

Borrowed a TS55. Amazing bit of kit. Had to flip over the wood to cut from both sides as it didn't go deep enought but good enough finish since cut side is going against the wall.

Now contemplating buying it over the DSS610 which I was saving for.

They're two different class of saw. If you were looking at the DSS610 I'll presume you have Makita batteries. You may want to look at the DSP600 track saw. It's similarly priced and a very very nice saw. There's a Bluetooth model coming out next year I believe which will be accompanied by a Bluetooth cordless extractor.

 

[stealthwolf]

They're two different class of saw. If you were looking at the DSS610 I'll presume you have Makita batteries. You may want to look at the DSP600 track saw. It's similarly priced and a very very nice saw. There's a Bluetooth model coming out next year I believe which will be accompanied by a Bluetooth cordless extractor.

Yup I was originally just going to get a cordless makita circular saw and look at some sort of rail for it. I've got a makita drill/driver, impact driver, jigsaw, and orbital sander. I was going to buy an SDS drill and a saw too.

The plunge saw esp with the rail seemed very easy to use. It took me longer to set things up and pack away than to do the cuts using the plunge saw. But it didn't cut deep enough.

What's the bluetooth system for?

 

[SammyInnit]

Yup I was originally just going to get a cordless makita circular saw and look at some sort of rail for it. I've got a makita drill/driver, impact driver, jigsaw, and orbital sander. I was going to buy an SDS drill and a saw too.

The plunge saw esp with the rail seemed very easy to use. It took me longer to set things up and pack away than to do the cuts using the plunge saw. But it didn't cut deep enough.

What's the bluetooth system for?

Well, as more and more tools are moving over to cordless/battery, the call for a cordless dust management system has been entered.

The Bluetooth tool pairs with the extractor, so as the tool starts the cordless extractor starts where normally you'd have a power line through the vac to use the autostart function.

 

[^woody^]

and look at some sort of rail for it

Make your own guide from two 1200mm or so strips of ply or better still from tufnol or acrylic.

www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/ lots of others on YouTube etc, but this is the principle.

 

[Nige F]

10mm off a post - Use a razor sharp hand axe. Followed by a jack plane . When I was a young plumb there was an old boy on site - Pennine Jim - we took the pee etc. He'd say " tha' thinks tha' knows , but tha' don't" I got him to show us his hand axe in use ( with usual tool jokes ) so he grabs this bit of 4x2 3 foot long and after checking the grain ( so it didn't split ) he whipped off a few slivers, then a couple of strokes with a jack plane it was reduced by 1/2 an inch all along.

 

[stealthwolf]

10mm off a post - Use a razor sharp hand axe. Followed by a jack plane . When I was a young plumb there was an old boy on site - Pennine Jim - we took the pee etc. He'd say " tha' thinks tha' knows , but tha' don't" I got him to show us his hand axe in use ( with usual tool jokes ) so he grabs this bit of 4x2 3 foot long and after checking the grain ( so it didn't split ) he whipped off a few slivers, then a couple of strokes with a jack plane it was reduced by 1/2 an inch all along.

Yup I've been watching Paul Sellers on youtube recently. He impresses me with his planing abilities. Something I need to look into but IMO needs skill to use effectively. Something which I don't have!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Borrowed a TS55. Amazing bit of kit. Had to flip over the wood to cut from both sides as it didn't go deep enought but good enough finish since cut side is going against the wall
Now contemplating buying it over the DSS610 which I was saving for.

The TS55 (and SP6000 and DSP600, etc, etc) is a plunge/rails saw designed specifically for breaking down sheet or sheet-like materials (e.g trimming bottoms off doors, etc). Without the rail a TS55 is really a pretty useless piece of kit TBH (I've had one with the rip fence for years) - and the rail generally limits you to cutting materials 250mm or so wide or wider unless you can fix (nail, screws) your material down to a bench, not to mention it is underpowered for heavy ripping. Rather than the DSS610, a DHS680 (brushless) would be a far better choice as a pure rip saw - and taking a 5mm or 10mm rip off a 2 x 2 CLS is no problem for it. If I had the choice of only one saw for general joinery out of those I'd have the DHS680. As someone else said, completely different beasts