We’ve got some nice ceramic kitchen sinks and we’re nervous about cracking them by fixing on the mixer taps. The taps have black plastic seals underneath them (see pic) which would be in contact with the top of the sinks when attached. We wonder whether we need additional washers such as polythene washers between the tap and sink top (see pic) to protect the ceramic sink?
Risk of cracking ceramic kitchen sink
- Thread starter geojay
- Start date
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1. You shouldn't need anything else under the black rubber seal. This seal compresses slightly on tightening to:
1a. Stop water going under the body of the tap. Introducing another washer might interfere with this function.
1b. Prevent the tap from rotating. Again, another washer, particularly a non-rubber one, might stop this working.
2. Tightening the tap has the basin in compression, and its much less likely to crack in this way.
1a. Stop water going under the body of the tap. Introducing another washer might interfere with this function.
1b. Prevent the tap from rotating. Again, another washer, particularly a non-rubber one, might stop this working.
2. Tightening the tap has the basin in compression, and its much less likely to crack in this way.
Make sure the seal in the tap base and the basin are squeaky clean and dry. Shouldn't need to overtighen the tap down, just till it grips and doesn't move/spin.
As others have said, you don't need anything else.
If you used the polythene washers, the seal between the base of the tap and washer would be fine, but you would be likely to leaks between the washer and sink.
Generally, one uses a box spanner to tighten the retaining nut on the tap. The "tommy" bars to tighten the box spanners are unlikely to be long enough to provide enough torque to damage the ceramic finish.
If you used the polythene washers, the seal between the base of the tap and washer would be fine, but you would be likely to leaks between the washer and sink.
Generally, one uses a box spanner to tighten the retaining nut on the tap. The "tommy" bars to tighten the box spanners are unlikely to be long enough to provide enough torque to damage the ceramic finish.
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D
Deleted member 294929
I chuck the rubber washers as the collect grime. Use a clear silicon and clean off excess
Bodger.
No silicone needed if installed correctly.
D
Deleted member 294929
Johnny the the push fit plumber...
The amount of times I see these rubber flanges clearly visible between the tap and basin... I know what's best
If the rubber is visible it means that the tap has not been fitted correctly.
Don't know what you mean by "the push fit plumber.
Yes, I use hep2o nowadays but I also use soldered copper when needed.
I understand that some old school plumbers insist on having everything in copper (and charge accordingly), but times move on.
I'm not a plumber anyway, but my installations never leaked.
Could it be that because I am not a professional plumber I take greater care on every joint???
D
Deleted member 294929
Your right. But if you've been given a cheap badley designed tap to fit then sometimes the washers are useless.
Don't confuse a rubber washers with an O ring.
If the tap base is designed with a groove/seating designed to house a washer or a O ring then great
But that's obvious that the two go together.
Some taps don't have that and just sit proud. If that's the case then chuck it.
D
Deleted member 294929
Perfect example...
Clearly the washers are proud
what would you have done different here?
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 294929
Something like this would have an O ring seal on the shroud. But this would be obvious to any monkey the the O ring has a place to go
Not the op's case.
Those contractors taps are meant to have a visible rubber, unlike the op's tap which has a o-ring sitting in a groove as you rightly pointed out.
Removing that o-ring or fitting it incorrectly will result in water dripping under the sink.
That o-ring is there to stay and doesn't need any sealant.
D
Deleted member 294929
Your correct I should have been more observant..
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