Roof Tile Question for Dry Hip End

[leevis]

Hi
I have all that i need now to do a dry hip, i have the redland hip end tile but have noticed that because i am using Redland 49 tiles, these tiles are quite long and where the tiles lay on top of each other on the hip they create a decent angle which follows the roofing line, at the bottom though, the bottom tile kind of sits on its own and there is a bigger gap underneath the tile so when i put the tray on you can see a bigger gap than at the other tiles.

I guess that this is the norm and as long as they all follow the same line it shouldn't matter too much, just wondering if i need to prop up the bottom. I will be fixing the battens and then putting the dry fix membrane down then the trays, just concerned about that bottom gap

 

[catlad]

I always bed the bottom ridge on + hip iron unless you can get a cloaked ridge end.

 

[Alastairreid]

https://www.roofgiant.com/dry-ridge-systems/redland-third-round-block-end-hip/

 

[leevis]

Yes i already have the block end. This is a dry hip so not bedding needed. If i was to bed it in, it would be higher. It quite difficult to explain, i have opted for one baton less and everything looks reasonably flat and straight but the bottom tile (the block end) slightly dips down.If i was to raise this it would not cloak the bottom tiles.

 

[datarebal]

well what are you going to do then?

 

[leevis]

Well i'm still looking for a solution to this one. If i was to do it as it is at the moment (basically three battens) then it will match at the top and down the sides and the bottom hip end tile WILL cover the tile bottoms on the last tile. What i will have to do though is not screw the trays all the way into the batten as this will flatten them too much. Although doing it this way will mean that the hip end tile will dip down slightly, not massively but noticable.

The other option i have is to add another batten to the battens i have, this will mean i can properly drill through the trays into the batten BUT the hip end WILL NOT cover the edges of the end tiles (the corner) and will be raised above.

Really not sure which way to jump on this, i would say that the hip end tile needs to cover the corner tile edges and the only way i can do this is to slightly angle the hip end to accommodate this.

I'll see if i can take some pics with both solutions and see what you think on how i can mitigate this issue, i would guess that dry hips are common place these days and redland 49s are quite common. Roof has a 31 deg pitch.

Lee

 

[leevis]

I've had a moment of inspiration

So, all the battens were set out correctly with the the first batten set at a shorter margin to get the overhang which i believe to be the correct way to do this. At the edge of the roof i have just put in a batten to kick the tile up, i am wondering whether i need to put another batten on the top of this one just to raise the bottom tiles slightly and then give them a uniform lift.

Looking on the internet it looks like some people are using the soffit to do this, what is the normal practice with this. I think this might solve my problem (the additional batten or at least something maybe thinner to raise the tiles to the height needed for the hip tile to hide the edges and give a uniform height.

Lee

 

[Alastairreid]

Normally the eaves course would rest on top of the fascia, in your case double up the bottom battens to keep the tiles in the proper plane.

 

[leevis]

Awesome. Follow up question while i am on a roll, are eaves trays worth it? I am going to have to get the bottom run of tiles off and the trays are not installed, just wondered if its worth doing

 

[leevis]

Follow up question 2 - if i was to get the eaves trays, would the bottom battens go in first then the trays installed on top?

 

[datarebal]

batten on fascia then trays

 

[leevis]

rather that get an extra batten i bought some eaves air vents which are 25mm so should do the trick nicely and get some airflow going, going to test height later this week

Awesome advice so far, many thanks

 

[leevis]

Did the extra batten thing in the end. All done now with the exception of putting the actual hip and ridge tiles up there which leads me to a new problem.

I have a ridge with two hips coming off of it. I am having real difficulty in cutting the tiles to the right angles. Whats the best method here? Cut the Ridge one first ensuring that the 'point' is right in the middle and then work out the others from that or is there a easier way of doing it. I have bought a redland junction peice but its not much cop and doesnt help that much. Just wondering how everyone does this, i am having problems marking it for starters and then drawing the line as it ends up as a freehand affair.

Whats the best order of events here?

L

 

[datarebal]

Position the hips, draw a line each side of the two hips and the same for the ridge.
That gives you one cut point .then the same on the centre lines of all three. Join the marks and cut.
Don't put a small cut at the top of the hips or end of ridge.

 

[leevis]

I'll have a play up there at the weekend. Not too sure i understand this one

Where you say draw a line each side of the two hips, I dont get what you mean there. What i did before was cut each tile (1 ridge an 2 hips) twice to make a triangle at the top and pray that it fitted (it didnt)

Step 1 Mark the center line on the roof where the bottom of the hips will reside
Step 2 Using the hips trays, mark each hip tile at the bottom in line with this mark
Step 3 Mark a center line on the hip tiles and cut from bottom mark to top mark

This should mean that the two hip tiles are in the correct place i think

Not too sure what to do about the ridge