routing cable between a short distance

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I want to route a cable about 2 metres between one 13A socket and another. The wall is a stud wall plasterboarded with fibre-glass insulation inside. The flooring is chipboard and it needs to be done as cheaply as possible without looking poo :D

I figured going along the skirting but that looks rough.

then i thought ah stuff it i'll get a circular saw to the flooring but that takes time plus i gotta get up past the skirting

or making holes in the wall to fish through but i gotta patch it up

Any ideas are appreciated

chris
 
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Have you had a good look at ALL the alternatives? Is there a loft/crawl space above this wall? I ask because whilst plug sockets are normally cabled from the floor up, I live in a first floor maisonette and all of my wiring is carried from the loft above.

If this is the case for you, then you could just break into the ring main above the wall and drop the cables down through the cavity.

If you want your cables completely hidden, there will always be some patching up work to do afterwards.
 
cheers for the replies

and why have you to run one cable?

to add a socket.

trunking?

if i use trunking it will sit out further than the sockets will as they are flush.

drop the cables down

there wont be any power cables in the roof space as all wiring is under the floor (other than lighting in roof) this means i gotta go up before i can come back down, theres bound to be nogins in the wall too. :cry:


hmm...... looks like i'll have to clip along the skirting in white pvc. other than that fish behind the wall and notch the wood at each piece of stud. :rolleyes:
 
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There is an alternative, you hinted at it, but this way makes less fuss and a better finish.

Locate the studs in the wall. Between two of them, obviously with a section in between, cutout a section where the stud, best is about 300mm long and 100mm high. Use a stanley knife, or preferably a plasterboard saw to do this.

Kepp this cutout section safe, and repeat for each stud you need to pass through. Now you have the studs exposed, use a drill to make a hole in the studs, it is better than notching them.

In the section where you intend to mount the new socket, cut out a section of plasterboard between two studs about 200mm high, make sure you only cut the plasterboard halfway across the stud, and do this with the centre of the hole the same as the centre height of your socket.

Now insert a section of wood bewtten the two studs and nail into place..make sure that you can screw a 25mm deep metal socket box to it and still be beneath the plasterboard..ideally the plasterboard should rest on the socket box.

In the middle of the section you cutout, cut a hole for the socket.

When you have wired your socket, you can replace the sections of plasterboard you cutout and using short clout nails refix them to the studs.

Around the edge of these section of plasterboard you will need to tape and joint using jointing plaster. Once sanded down and decorated you would never know the work had been done.
 
skilled said:
cheers for the replies

and why have you to run one cable?

to add a socket.
So you're not making it part of the ring?

trunking?

if i use trunking it will sit out further than the sockets will as they are flush.
Don't use flush sockets then. OK, it's personal, but I think that trunking looks a lot better than clipped T/E... Also better protection. T/E on the skirting board is a risk. Might even be against the regs - not sure.

drop the cables down

there wont be any power cables in the roof space as all wiring is under the floor (other than lighting in roof) this means i gotta go up before i can come back down, theres bound to be nogins in the wall too. :cry:
Why not go under the floor? Drop down behind the wall from each socket. Unless they are a long way off the floor you should be able to get the cables up without cutting the plasterboard??

BTW - is the entire ring buried in fibreglass insulation? Do you know how long it is? Who installed it?
 
Thanks guys

So you're not making it part of the ring?

if i choose the way that FWL_Engineer has described then its very likely i will as this will give me some added space to work with two 2.5mm cables. The option of on the skirting will only allow me to spur it. This method is not against the regs afaik.

me thinks i will notch the wood, theres no wall paper and at poly fillers prices ;)
 
well they cant show u every trick in the book.

The extent they go to is.. "oh here is your bay with one big piece of ply to screw stuff to"

no floors or anything. This job is for a customer see, so i want it to look decent. Do people really examine your work when u leave do u think?
 
skilled said:
well they cant show u every trick in the book.
Not every one, but you'd think that in 2 or 3 years they would at least touch on this one, plasterboard walls being as common as they are...

This job is for a customer see, so i want it to look decent.
Quite right.

Do people really examine your work when u leave do u think?
Only me :LOL:
 
skilled said:
Not every one, but you'd think that in 2 or 3 years they would at least touch on this one, plasterboard walls being as common as they are...

never said i couldn't do it did i? :D
No, and nobody suggested you couldn't. Just makes me wonder why we're exhorted to use "qualified" electricians who spend "years" gaining qualifications and experience if this sort of thing isn't covered...

I'm serious... Until 01/01/05, then it'll be the man from the Council.
 
Quote:
Do people really examine your work when u leave do u think?


I am my own worst enemy when it comes to QC. If it is no good, I make it good!

I imagine it is me that I am doing the work for, and I am one fussy f***er!!

This applies to all aspects of the job - greeting the customer, tidiness etcetera....am I doing a good job?
 
on your 2360 1 & 2?

its not 236 anymore, although my training was.





does anyone ever get nervous going to see customers? i cr*p myself!

especially when the phones rings!


oh and 'ban-all-sheds'... lighten up.
 

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