Running a spur off a cooker circuit?

[Fishingsmurf]

I've read several old posts in regards to this, but I'm still not really sure if I can do what I would like to, so advice would be much appreciated!

My cooker runs off it's own 32A circuit, connected to a cooker switch unit, and then wired into a CCU.

Can I run a spur off either the cooker switch or the CCU, this would be about 2m, to a single fused switched socket, that would have a dishwasher plugged into it. If I can, what size cable should I use to the socket?

Thanks,
Paul

 

[ColJack]

in theory, yes you can..
2.5 should be fine providing that you only conect a single socket to it. ( by virtue of the 13A fuse in the plug limiting the current in the wire. ).

however in practicality it would depend on how tight that 32A is for your cooker and if you intend to have the cooker and DW on at the same time.. you might trip the breaker / fuse

 

[spark1]

What arrangements have you made regarding compliance with the Building Regs ?

 

[LoveRocket]

Yes, yes you can. 2.5mm cable will be fine.

It's not ideal, and as ColJack has said, if the heating element is on in the DW and you've got a lot going on on the cooker, you might trip the MCB.

 

[Fishingsmurf]

Thanks for the replies - I appreciate it may not be the best solution.

Would the socket be best coming off the cooker switch or the CCU ?

With regards to the oven load, main oven is 2.5Kw, top oven/grill is 1.85Kw / 2.6Kw.

 

[planemad]

What is the cable size to the cooker?
With the figures you gave I cannot see a 32a mcb tripping when the cooker and the dishwasher are drawing full current.

I also assume you have a gas hob?

Don't forget to get a sparky to do the work for you and ensure that he can issue a cert.
This is notifiable work to your local BCO.

 

[Fishingsmurf]

It is a gas hob and the cable running to the cooker is 10mm I think.

The socket is already in place, currently running as a spur off another socket, so I'm actually just re-routing the cable. I can no longer use the existing source for the spur as I've just swapped it for something nicer looking, only problem is that I now can't get all the wires in the thing! So, I want to run the spurred socket from somewhere else.....do I still need a sparky for this?

Cheers!

 

[abw]

If you connect to the CCU then the socket/spur will be switched by the cooker switch.

 

[LoveRocket]

Connect it to the supply side of the CCU (cooker control unit - or what you have called the cooker switch), not the outlet plate (which you seem to have called the CCU!)

Do you need a sparky? Well, blah blah, Part-P, blah blah, work in a kitchen, blah blah, notifiable, blah blah, LABC, blah blah WHATEVER. Just crack on, work safely and get the job done.

 

[abw]

sorry just getting used to this

 

[abw]

My cooker runs off it's own 32A circuit, connected to a cooker switch unit, and then wired into a CCU.

CCU could be “Cooker Control Unit” or “Cooker Connection Unit”. Using the original post refers to a cooker switch unit. A cooker control unit would normally have a double pole switch and a 13 amp socket.

 

[sparkwright]

Why can't you supply the dishwasher socket from the kitchen socket circuit?

 

[spark1]

Hi yer Loverocket...My following points are intended to be in the best interests of the O.P. and I have no axe to grind with you at all but as I am sure you are aware of yourself Kitchen Electrics are one of the most common areas where Sparks find Major Botch ups of wiring circuits by Keen DIYers , Kitchen Fitters, General Builders etc. Part P of the Building Regs although far from perfect has improved matters somewhat. Therefore it has to be good advice given when the O.P is advised of this with particular reference to his overall poor understanding of the requirements for Electrical circuit wiring etc.
The point made to BAS about his admissions to flouting the Notification procedure in his own Kitchen just doesnt stack up as a comparison with the O.P. I think most regular forum members would agree that he is more than capable of ensuring proper workmanship in this instance ,and in all honesty Part P is irrelevant for any Competant Spark doing work on his own Electrics...its the competance of the O.p thats the issue here surely ?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Competence is far more important, but is also a separate issue from notification. If competent people wish not to notify, that is up to them. If incompetent people wish to notify, that is also up to them.

My position is to advise people on doing/not doing the job based on what I believe their competence to be, and sometimes I'll ask questions to help establish that, despite some of the children here deciding that I must mean the questions to be other than what they say.

My position is also, as I have stated several times in the past, that any decision someone makes to ignore the requirements to notify must be his, and his alone, and should be an informed decision. We can give our opinions on what the likely outcomes will be, and what potential problems will arise, but we must not actually advise people to break the law.

 

[Fishingsmurf]

To clarify a couple of points re my original posting.

I referred to a CCU being the Cooker Connection Unit, or as others call the outlet plate. The supply from the main fuse board goes to a cooker connection switch, or CCU as people appear to refer, and then onto the outlet plate, into which the cooker is wired.

The dishwasher is currently running off a spur from a socket in the existing kitchen circuit, and in replacing the existing kitchen sockets with nicer looking ones, I find I can't fit all the wires into these. Makes note to self - must check this in future before buying fancy sockets!!

So, based on replies from here, I believe I can run a new cable from the cooker control unit to this socket (switched) to power my dishwasher. The other kitchen sockets are above work top level, the dishwasher one is below, and running from the cooker switch I can keep the cable underneath and out of the way without having to bury into walls or make holes in worktops.

The only bit that now concerns me is whether or not I need to get a qualified electrician to do this? The socket is already in place, therefore it is not a new install. I'm just providing the supply from another source, also in place as part of original house build.

Cheers!