Running all cables back to an understairs cupboard.

[enigmatic]

Hello

Im in the process of wiring my house for cat6 and whilst im at it running in some rg6 coax

I plan to have virgin media move the incoming feed from the front of the house to the side where the cupboard is in order to station the TiVo box there.

Would I be able to split the signal from the TiVo to the coax points across the house? I have looked at a powered distribution unit but im confused if it would send the signal to the other points and enable me to control via IR

Also I my htpc will sit here too. I have looked into ways of taking the HDMI signal and sending it to other tvs but im a bit stuck. Im not sure if I should go for a hdmi matrix or just hdmi over cat6 extenders. I will only need it to serve two points so the cost of the matrix units possibly outweighs the need.

That say I will be adding other TV's in the future to the kitchen and cinema room if I ever get the childrens toys out of there.

What would be my best bet for sending the hdmi signal? I have my blu ray collection ripped to 1:1 copies from a NAS so they will be fairly hefty in size for streaming between 30-45gb

Hopefully I can find some answers

cheers[/b]

 

[Ricardus]

Doing some googling it looks like the max length for a straight run of HDMI cable is about 10-12m (35-40ft) before signal degredation starts to affect 1080p signals.

Looking at the prices for HDMI over Ethernet boxes it might be worth getting a streaming media player that can pull movies off your existing HTPC/NAS box instead.

 

[Lucid]

I wouldn't run RG6 which is a basic coax. Go for WF100 instead. But as far as your aerial distribution system goes then I think you're going to be out of luck with Tivo. The last few boxes I wired up for customers didn't have any RF out sockets at all.

There is a SCART socket along with the HDMI. But Virgin only gives the option to run one or the other, so a Tri-Link is out of the question. If you want HD on the main TV then you should probably think about distributing via HDMI.

From what you've written it seems like the Tivo is the only HDMI source in your system. If that's the case then then there's no need for a true matrix switcher. You'd only need that if you were dealing with several HDMI sources and wanted the option of sending any signal to one/some/all rooms. As long as all the TVs are 1080p then all you need is a HDMI distribution amp to split the signal for n-rooms. After that you can use HDMI for the shorter runs and 2xCAT6 each dedicated to HDMI where the run will be longer than 15~20m.

BTW, you do know that Tivo only outputs one signal, right? i.e. every TV in the house has a window on what's being watched in the lounge.


If I was spec'ing this for a client here's what I'd do...


- TV aerial in to comms cupboard
- at least two satellite cables in to comms room (for future-proofing)
- aerial distribution amp with *Sky pass (*for Tri-Link now and for future-proofing)
- Tri-Link for simple and inexpensive IR control using Sky Eyes over the RF network
- RF (aerial cable) out to each room + a Sky Eye for every room

The above takes care of distributing a Freeview signal and gives you a way to get IR control back to the comms cupboard. It also provides an easy way to change to Sky without running extra cable if required in the future.


Next, we'll deal with video over CAT/HDMI...

- Short runs (>15~20m) use HDMI cable. It's cheap and readily available. Make sure the cable is fire rated for inwall use.
- Longer runs use 2x CAT6 and baluns. The CAT cable network must be kept separate from the Data network. You can't put a balun signal through a router.
- Decent HDMI distribution amp in the comms cupboard

If the tail-end (TV end) balun needs a power supply think about how that might affect the TV install. A nice thin TV won't look so great id the bracket is stuck out 6" off the wall because there's a wallwart transformer and box to hide. Instead, bring the CAT cable in at floor level directly below the TV and then install a link HDMI from floor to TV point. That way you don't need so many power sockets behind the TV and you can hide any electronics in a small cupboard or chest.

The above takes care of HDMI distribution. Next is Data...


If you plan on staying in the house more than 10 years then make your wiring easy to upgrade. Put it in conduit inwall. Add access points. Add pull cables. CAT6 is reasonably future-proof in the medium term but fibre is here now, albeit in its infancy for home use. Similarly, 10 years ago no one planned for network connected TVs. Who knows what the next 10 years will bring. One thing is certain though; our future is more connected. Wireless is improving and will soon rival Gigabit cable in theory, but it has a lot of shortcomings. Not least the fact that network speed is dictated by the slowest item. This is a limit that cable doesn't have. So prewiring for data is still a good plan.

For bedrooms I'd recommend wiring at least two points behind the TV, 2x to floor level directly below, and 2x to bedside points. For the lounge you'll need at least two behind the TV and possibly more if you plan to install a soundbar for better audio. You'll need some at floor level for local games consoles, media streamers and other devices. While on the topic of media streamers, this is how you deal with accessing the HTPC content around the house. It's a thin client system. Media streamers are available now for under £80 that will happily play your 1080p 1:1 rips over a single Gigabit network connection. This gives you "any film, anywhere" and solves HTPC control at the same time. It's simple and effective and it also removes the requirement for a matrix.


General notes: Make sure all the cable is fire rated for inwall use. Run it in trunking inwall if possible and build in a way to pull new cable in the future as standards change. [Access panels at bends, pull cable.] Remember that we are on the eve of the arrival of HDMI 2.0 which will take us in to 4K TV. TEST all cables thoroughly before final fix.

 

[Sam Gangee]

Wow, that was comprehensive but I have a question: what is "fire rated" HDMI cable and how can you tell the difference?

 

[Lucid]

Wow, that was comprehensive but I have a question: what is "fire rated" HDMI cable and how can you tell the difference?

Here's an example http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY and another and another

If the CL2 or CL3 rating ident isn't listed in the specs then presume it's not fire rated.

"Fire rated" is industry shorthand for something suitable for inwall installation where it won't compromise the fire retardant properties of the structure of the house. IOW, if there's a fire in one room then the cable won't act as a conduit to spread the fire to another room quicker than its normal progress through the building.

The BlueJeans cable site has a good run down of the various ratings. It's biased to American standards, but the principles are sound and the UK industry does seem to have adopted the class rating system when referring to HDMI cables for inwall installation.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/inwallrating.htm

 

[Sam Gangee]

Interesting. Does this fall under Building Regulations legislation in the UK and does it apply to a private dwelling?

 

[Lucid]

You'd have to get chapter and verse from a qualified Electrician who is up to speed on the latest regs, but as general guidance see the Electrical Safety Council's Best Practise Guide: http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/user_upload/documents/industry/best_practice/BPG5_08.pdf This is for domestic property.

It talks about partial penetration and full penetration in relation to cabling including (but not limited to) speaker cables and data points. By extension this would cover any comms cables running round the house.

As a professional and insured installer, fire safety is something I take seriously from both a personal and a business perspective. I'd like to think that any DIY installer would also value the safety of their family above saving a tenner on a HDMI cable; but you and I both know the reality of the DIY market.