Got a query for you. I want to move my 45A Cooker. I have been told i cant just junction box it and run it around in the wall. Gotta have an unjoined cable. Now heres the trouble. I don't wanna chase out walls, can I run in a new cable and run it on the surface of the walls, and just put it in White plastic mini trunking, so long as I take it back to the Consumer Unit?
Running in cables
- Thread starter moleyman
- Start date
Sponsored Links
B
breezer
yes, you can also use henly blocks (ugly on a wall) , but as you said ideally an unbroken cable will be much better, trunking is not a requirement you can clip it direct to the wall if you wish
Yo can get 60A junction boxes that look OK on a wall. see here
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html
these are as good as henley (double screwed terminals) but look soo much better
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html
these are as good as henley (double screwed terminals) but look soo much better
Be warned - they are a heck of a lot bigger than you would (probably) expect....
However - how far will the cooker be in a straight line from the existing switch?
However - how far will the cooker be in a straight line from the existing switch?
Sponsored Links
Probably about two and a half metres away from the switch as the crow flies, but the cable length from the wall outlet would probably be closer to 4 metres.
I had thought about using a wall outlet as a junction box, as they are a reasonable size, and they obviously have the correct rating for 45A.
Other thing is, would it be OK to spur off the switch for the extract, and then another spur for the lights?
That oval junction box looks like it about 6 inches across?! But it wouldn't really matter, cos it would be just above the Kitchen Wall units and so not visible unless you were about 7" Tall!!
I had thought about using a wall outlet as a junction box, as they are a reasonable size, and they obviously have the correct rating for 45A.
Other thing is, would it be OK to spur off the switch for the extract, and then another spur for the lights?
That oval junction box looks like it about 6 inches across?! But it wouldn't really matter, cos it would be just above the Kitchen Wall units and so not visible unless you were about 7" Tall!!
2m is how far (max) the switch should be from the appliance - I was just wondering if you needed to extend at all, or if you could just run a longer cable from the switch...moleyman said:
People get upset about circuits being used for multiple items. It "feels" OK to use a cooker circuit for a hood, but not lights. You could always run a supply cable to a small CU, and have separate circuits coming from there for cooker, lights & hood..
More, from memory..
The cable can be as long as you like, subject to the usual laws of physics, and the rules on concealing it, if that applies (which it doesn't in this case).
2m is the maximum distance between the appliance and the switch. At 2.5m I'd be tempted to go for it.
BTW - you do know about Part P I take it?
2m is the maximum distance between the appliance and the switch. At 2.5m I'd be tempted to go for it.
BTW - you do know about Part P I take it?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
