running power to swimming pool

[newbie chippie]

Hello to everyone ,

last year my inlaws had a swimming pool put in there garden, and now they want to run power to the pool (to heat it i pressume). They have been told they need an 80amp supply.

I realise that they will have to get a qualified electrician to do the work but they have asked me to organise the work for them , so can you tell me what the job would entail so i have an idea of what i am talking about when i speak to the sparky doing the job.

For example would power be run from the house?
Or would power be run to the garage from the house, and then to the pool from the house?
How should the cable be run to the garage/pool?

The ground the cable would have to go through would be a concrete driveway, and the garden lawn. All advice welcome.

all the best newbie

 

[Spark123]

Where do you need the power to? Where are the heaters housed? I take it there'll be pumps, filters etc too? If you get the electrician along and say I need electric to the swimming pool to run X, Y and Z then I am sure he will be in a good position to give advice.

 

[Taylortwocities]

80amps. thats more than the average house!

If you really mean 80amps then you would not be able to share this with the supply to the house. It would need a separate supply from the electricity company just for the pool. Hope your in-laws have deep pockets!

 

[EdwardCurrent]

Hi,
80A ???
Am I correct in thinking that no diversity can be applied to the heating system for the pool ?? , (as it is not instantaneous type).

Chippie, as 123 has said it's prob best to get all the info on the installation requirements off the manufacturer and get a sparky around.

If, and it's a big if , your supply can take this extra load, he may fit another enclosure near your consumer unit, henly block the tails, stick a armoured cable and a RCD in and then put another consumer unit ( if possible ie protected from external influences, within the permitted zones (240v will be a minimun of 3.5m from the pool etc) in the pool area.

Good Luck and keep us 'posted'.

Ed.

 

[breezer]

as "sort of mentioned" you cant run a supply to the pool. (nowhere for it to go)
a swimming pool requires heating, pumps for filtration and hygene kit, all this needs to be in a separate room (preferably near the pool) it will be this that the supply needs to go to.

Ask them have they considered gas heating for the pool.
Mind you its a bit pointless heating a pool unless it is in an enclosed space, but it will / should have pool filtration / chemical dosing

even this "el cheapo" pool has filtration

 

[GaryMo]

Supply and earthing arrangements may also be an issue.
If you have a PME supply then you can't export an earth so you would have to TT the swimming pool end.

 

[megawatt]

He wouldn't be exporting the earth if the incoming PME supply was split to feed 2 CU's?

I wouldn't combine PME & TT unless I had no other choice.

MW

 

[Lectrician]

But in anycase, PME would be ok as long as the heater was outside the zoning of the pool

To split the earthing system, the best way is to run a 2 core SWA from origin to out building. At origin, fit a 80amp sw fuse (or what ever rating). Reply on the TN-C-S for the SWA earthing - calc the max Zs of the armour.

At the outbuilding end, gland the SWA into a plastic enclosure, providing just a phase and neutral to the building. This will go directly into an RCD, and ROD dropped for the earthing.

 

[newbie chippie]

Thanks everyone for your input, I have a little more information for you.

They only need power run to the heater which is rated at 66amps. The heater is enclosed but the pool is not.

Would they still need a new supply put in

I had a quick chat with a spark today on site, he said it would be ok to run the heater supply by spurring off the the RCD by the consumer unit, then installing a isolater before the.

Is that right

I think the consumer unit and RCD are about 15years old.

All the best newbie

 

[newbie chippie]

Alrght guys , any advice on wheather they would still need a new supply installed for a heater rated at 66amps.

all the best, newbie.

 

[Lectrician]

Bearing in mind that most domestic supplies are rated at 80 amps, and some older ones at 60amp...........

A few are 100amp, perhaps you need to establish what the supply is

There is a slim chance you have a TP head at the origin - that would be ideal. Rare, usually if the house is at the end of a street etc.

 

[newbie chippie]

Cheers mate , i will find out what the supply is and post here once i know .

On a completely different matter and out of curiousity, you say most houses have a 80amp supply, some 100amps and some older ones are 60 amps. My house was rewired about 12 - 18 months ago by a part p electrician, who gave certificates after he had finished the job.

I have a 80amp supply, but there are 3 x 32amp socket circiuts, 2 x 6amp light circuits, a 40amp shower circuit, and a 40amp cooker circuit. I am not doubting the electrician, but clearly all of these circuits add up to more than 80amps, so i am just curious how it all works out (from reading other posts i think it has got something to do with diversity).

All the best newbie

 

[davy_owen_88]

(from reading other posts i think it has got something to do with diversity).

Spot on. Not every circuit will be drawing full load all of the time. Taking this into account is called diversity.

 

[RF Lighting]

I had a quick chat with a spark today on site, he said it would be ok to run the heater supply by spurring off the the RCD by the consumer unit, then installing a isolater

the heater which is rated at 66amps.

The biggest MCB available is 63A. This aint big enough for a 66A supply.

Also most domestic RCDs are rated at either 63A or 80A. This along with the load of the rest of the install aint big enough for a 66A supply

Would they still need a new supply put in

I reckon