Salus RT500RF thermostat control wiring query

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I've just fitted a Salus RT500RF which has replaced a conventional thermostat on a conventional central heating system. My original thermostat had two connections L & N. I've wired the receiver unit as 230v application (with jump wire) connecting the L & N terminals. The unit red light comes on with heating on, but the RF control (with new batteries, same address code as receiver) does not appear to work when programmed.

Have I wired it correctly? Is there some reset procedure I must do? Is there any test for the RF (when I press ^ it doesn't switch on)

Appreciate any help offered, thanks
 
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The receiver unit needs a L&N & then you need the two switching connections mate.

Your old room thermostat should(?) have had; two switching connections & a Neutral??
HTH
 
My original thermostat had two connections L & N.
What you mean is that the old stat had a brown and blue wire (or a red and black) connected; one is the live and the other the switched live.

You do not have a neutral, which the new thermostat needs to power the receiver. If there isn't a third wire hidden behind the old stat, you will have run a new cable or fit the receiver somewhere else.
 
Thanks D_H I think you've got it.

So to wire it I need to run a neutral or new L&N wire to the receiver unit. I need to find the swiched L connection, but then I'm not sure how to connect the 3 connections. Do I now use the 'volt free' (with jump wire removed) application? The manual says this mode should have the following connections : Live (230v feed); Neutral; Normally Closed (unsure what this is?); Volt Free feed; Switched Live (volt free)
 
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I'm assuming one of the 2 existing wires is always Live when the boiler mains is switched on.

For 240V operation connect the existing Permanent Live to both terminals 2 & 3.

The existing Switched Live goes to Terminal 1 and the new Neutral wire to 4.
 
Thanks j the connections you describe are for the 230v (with jump wire)application, not the volt-free application - this seems to be the answer :)
 
I guess it depends if your old room thermostat had a programmer supplying it with a Sw/Live or not??!!
 
Yes, my old theremostat didn't have a neutral just a switched live supply, so I'm taking a new run (L&N) to it with 5amp fuse and connecting up for 230v application as described in the manual. Thanks all for your help.
 
:?: Can I wire my Salus RT500RF into the Danfoss 102E5 programmer instead of the boiler. I have a mid-position 3 way valve system?

Thanks

Terry
 
Hi

Just thought I will refresh this post instead starting a new one.

Was about to change my Analog Danfoss RTM230 thermostat to Salus RF500 which I had seating for quite some time.
(BTW I think my boiler is Ferolli Domi Compact 24kw COMBI)

Unfortunately it seam I have same problem as above mention after removing front plate of thermostat only 2 wires plus ground. Problem I have is that my Danfoss stopped working does not make click any more is there any quick fix for that?
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Since my option are getting somebody to get new wires and received installed perhaps somewhere beside boiler, perhaps you can recommend other solutions likes of different thermostat since Salus is not well regarded.
Would rather spend money on good unit then spend money on the engineer to connect crappy one.
 
Some thermostats are battery operated so don't need a neutral, any of those will be fine. Good makes include Drayton, Danfoss, Honeywell.

You will need to select a wired, non RF version (one that doesn't have a separate thermostat and receiver) This doesn't matter in your case, because the advantage of an RF thermostat is that you don't have to run wires out to it, but you already have them in place.

For future reference, you should have started your own thread. Adding your question to someone else's can cause considerable confusion especially if both are still 'live' this practice is called 'Hi-jacking' and banned in the forum rules. However, as you are a newbie, the mods will probably let you off this time.
 

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