Sand blasting kit

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Long time since I've done any sand blasting and have never done bead blasting. Similar I guess.

It looks too cheap tbh.
You need a top class air fed respirator or you'll fill your lungs.
And a dedicated shed to work in or better still outside.
If its not raining that is.

I would want to see that kit in action before I would commit any shekels to the venture.
Hired one out once with a 200hp six cylinder engine. Don't remember the cfm but it was massive. Phenomenal removal rate though.
 
does any one see any problem with this combo ??? Thanks
Yes......

10 Gallon Pot Bead Shot Sand Blast Blaster Blasting
"Work Pressure: 60-125PSI 6-25CFM"

Rhyas 50L 14CFM Compressor 3HP V Twin 240V Compressed Air Tank
"The compressor produces 14CFM...."

Ask yourself the question, if the guys sand blasting houses need girt great 70 cfm Atlas-Copco or Hydrovane compressors, why? The answer is that sand or shot blasting requires copious quantities of compressed air. Unless you can run to a 20HP compressor with a 300 litre tank (i.e. 3-phase and BIG), or a tow-along portable you may be better off asking the lovcal engineering shop, house sandblaster or even garage to do the job
 
does any one see any problem with this combo ??? Thanks
Yes......

10 Gallon Pot Bead Shot Sand Blast Blaster Blasting
"Work Pressure: 60-125PSI 6-25CFM"

Rhyas 50L 14CFM Compressor 3HP V Twin 240V Compressed Air Tank
"The compressor produces 14CFM...."

Ask yourself the question, if the guys sand blasting houses need girt great 70 cfm Atlas-Copco or Hydrovane compressors, why? The answer is that sand or shot blasting requires copious quantities of compressed air. Unless you can run to a 20HP compressor with a 300 litre tank (i.e. 3-phase and BIG), or a tow-along portable you may be better off asking the lovcal engineering shop, house sandblaster or even garage to do the job
. :?: Sorry what's that in English
 
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Basically your compressor is undersized.
 
You need about 1 1/2 times bigger on the compressor.

So 25 x 1.5 = 37 cfm.
 
I wouldn't pay much heed on what it says. Pen and paper refuses nothing.
Keypad and screen not much better at times. :LOL:

Go and get a demonstration before comitting your self.
Simples.

That big 200hp unit I mentioned would clean your 7 rads to bare metal in about 30 - 40 minutes.
And you are considering hitting them with 3 hp!
 
Basically your compressor is undersized.
Ta!

So 25 x 1.5 = 37 cfm.
but I says 6-25 so 6 x 1.5 = 9 soooooo :?: :?:
That is the bare minimum you'd need to sand etch glass or blast with a light blasting powder such as pumice or ground cherry pits. Steel shot or sand - which are what you need for cast iron, steel, etc - are much, much heavier requiring 20cfm or more AND at higher pressure, say 80cfm. Ergo you will need a compressor at the top end of that scale.

The compressor you have chosen is way too small on two grounds. Follow me and I'll try to show you the maths:-

Firstly 14 cfm is the swept volume of the compressor. It is a THEORETICAL figure, not an actual one. For that you normally need to find out the FAD or Free Air Delivery of the compressor. FAD is the REAL, measured output from the compressor and industrial compressor manufacturers always quote this whilst the guys selling hobby and light (car) workshop compressors behave like estate agents when it comes to outputs - always quote the highest figure without explaining what they mean by it. As Norcon says this swept volums is in effect about 2/3 the theoretical figure, so your 14cfm unit is probably only giving 9 to 10 CFM FAD in the real world.

Next the receiver (air vessel) size is way too small for the application at only 50 litres. In order that you don't kill a compressor you need to run on something like a 1/3 to 1/2 duty cycle. In other words the compressor ideally should only run for 1/3 to 1/2 of the time you are operating the equipment on air. A 50 litre (or 1.76 cubic feet) tank drained at 14cfm will last about 8 seconds before the motor cuts in, at 6cfm the drain time will be around 18 seconds, always assuming that your air pressure at the receiver and the gun are the same. Even if you drop the air pressure at the gun to 60 psi, or half the compressor's capacity those figures will only be improved to 16 seconds and 36 seconds respectively. 60 psi probably won't be enough to pick-up a heavy abrasive so you'll turn the pressure at the gun up to compensate and the compressor motor will spend all it's time trying to keep up with demand. The result is that you'll run out of air repeatedly and have to wait all the time for the receiver to refill whilst the motor will run constantly leading to premature failure and in all probability very annoyed neighbours.

By way of comparison a 300 litre tank would give you a buffer of 48 and 108 seconds respectively at the higher pressure and double that at the lower pressure. A reasonable compromise might therefore would be in the 150 to 200 litre area, although you'd still require a 25 to 30cfm compressor unless you want the motor running all the time with the inevitable results.

Sizing compressors and receivers isn't rocket science, but it can't be done by pulling figures out of the air, either. Hopefully you understand my earlier comments :D
 
Right so first of all thanks very much for the help ..it's a shame as I love new tools and if it means new tool and save money all is good :p ..the radiators are going to cost me £125 each to be shot blasted and sprayed which I really don't want to pay plus I would get no satisfaction out of it so as the cast iron radiators only have one or two coats of paint I was thinking of wire bushing with a angle grinder and get a compressor and spray gun and spraying them my self if so what size compressor would I need to spray with ?? :?:
 
I wouldn't touch that compressor in your link with a barge pole.


Sealey are OK but not top notch. Probably made in the far east.
Ingersoll Rand are a top make and will be more expensive than the sealey.Probably by at least 25%.
Their premium packaged Type 30 Cast Iron Air Compressors are a class act.
ingersollrand.jpg
 

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