Sanding Oak Doors?

[LeadFarmer]

It is ok to sand oak doors with normal sandpaper? I've heard steel wool shouldn't be used as they could go black.

I've just had some internal unfinished oak doors fitted and I have some Osmo oil to treat them. They feel lovely and smooth but there are the fitters pencil marks etc that I need to remove. What's the correct method with oak please??

 

[johnny2007]

Why didn't they remove the marks themselves???
Use a bit of 250 grit paper followed by 400 and 800.
Don't forget to wipe the whole door with white spirit before treating.
In fact, if the pencil marks are not too heavy, they should come off with white spirit.

 

[LeadFarmer]

Don't forget to wipe the whole door with white spirit before treating.

Is wiping with white spirit vital? Will that be ok with the Osmo oil i'm applying?

 

[johnny2007]

Yes, it's vital.
It degrease the surface so anything you apply to it sticks/penetrate evenly.
Just a quick rub down with a white cotton cloth (old t-shirt) with white spirit on it.
You don't need a full bottle, just a bit on the cloth.

 

[LeadFarmer]

Thanks, I'll use some white spirits then.

 

[opps]

Why didn't they remove the marks themselves???
Use a bit of 250 grit paper followed by 400 and 800.
Don't forget to wipe the whole door with white spirit before treating.
In fact, if the pencil marks are not too heavy, they should come off with white spirit.

Not sure I'd agree with the 400 and 800 grit when using OSMO. OSMO recommend no smoother than 240 grit paper. Any smoother and you risk polishing the wood, making it difficult for the oil to soak in. When spaying 2K paints, a manufacturer recommended no higher than 320 grit, any higher and you lose the "key".

White spirit won't harm the door or affect the oil. Meths and isopropyl alcohol are much better at degreasing though. Personally, I would sand the whole door and not worry about degreasing U(unless there are obvious signs of grease).

OSMO is great stuff but if applied too thick it will stay tacky for days.

 

[LeadFarmer]

Thanks everyone. I need to ring the door supplier to confirm if they are solid oak, or veneered. I've been told that veneered doors don't like Osmo oil and it shouldn't be used. I hope that's not the case as I've bought a 2.5L tin of Osmo PolyX.

 

[opps]

Thanks everyone. I need to ring the door supplier to confirm if they are solid oak, or veneered. I've been told that veneered doors don't like Osmo oil and it shouldn't be used. I hope that's not the case as I've bought a 2.5L tin of Osmo PolyX.

A friend of mine is a cabinet maker by trade but now a film set carpenter (pays much more).

He phoned me a couple of weeks ago to let me know that he had given my number (as a decorator) to another carpenter who wants me to "finish" some veneered doors. I asked if they were to be sprayed with 2pack lacquer, oiled or varnished. I expressed my concerns about the veneer glue. He said that he has not had any issues with any finish on veneered doors made in the last 20 or so years.

The following site says it should ok.

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-door-oil

By all means though, do contact the door manufacturer.

 

[LeadFarmer]

A friend of mine is a cabinet maker by trade but now a film set carpenter (pays much more).

He phoned me a couple of weeks ago to let me know that he had given my number (as a decorator) to another carpenter who wants me to "finish" some veneered doors. I asked if they were to be sprayed with 2pack lacquer, oiled or varnished. I expressed my concerns about the veneer glue. He said that he has not had any issues with any finish on veneered doors made in the last 20 or so years.

The following site says it should ok.

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-door-oil

By all means though, do contact the door manufacturer.

Thats interesting to know, thanks

 

[LeadFarmer]

I've got some Wooster Red Feather 4" rollers that Im thinking of using to apply the oil, I'm hoping they will be suitable.

Is it worth applying two coats of Osmo, sanding in-between?

 

[opps]

I'd use the rollers and then level off with a brush.

You need a minimum of two coats.

No harm in lightly sanding between coats (provided that you do not cut through the coat). I like the Wooster mini rollers, just be aware that you need either their mini roller frame or the Purdy version.

You can store the roller, brush and tray in a bin liner over night. Any more than a couple of days without use and I would recommend using a BrushMate to store them

https://www.brewers.co.uk/brands/brush-mate

The brushmate 4 will accommodate the roller sleeve and brush buy not the frame. The brushmate 20 should accommodate the frame as well but will cost more. They are brilliant though. They use vapours to prevent oil based brushes from drying out.

 

[LeadFarmer]

Spoke to the door suppliers today, they advised not to use Osmo oil on my veneered doors as it can affect the glue, they recommend Leyland/Johnstons Classic Matt Woodstain Clear. So I'll be flogging my tin of Osmo on Facebook.

They suggested not using meths to clean the doors, just a very light sanding, then apply the wood stain.

These doors have become the bane of my life, what with the 4" latches being too highly sprung to turn etc, now the oil!!!

Good job they look nice..

 

[opps]

Strange...

That Johnstones paint is oil based, and an exterior finish. They often contain fungicides and not recommended for interior use...

 

[LeadFarmer]

Strange...

That Johnstones paint is oil based, and an exterior finish. They often contain fungicides and not recommended for interior use...

I've contacted someone I know in the trade, they said the same thing about the Johnstons product not being suitable.

They had a similar issue recently and phoned Osmo who said their PolyX oil is fine for veneered doors as its low in solvent and high in solids, (which is what makes it expensive) and won't affect the veneer glue if applied in thin coats, so I went ahead and applied the oil. I first gave a light sanding with 180 paper in the areas that had fingermarks etc, then applied the Osmo to the door mouldings with a small dishwashing sponge, then used the Wooster rollers for the remainder of the doors.

I didn't wipe with meths, as the door supplier told me not to. But it's frustrating getting contradictory info from door supplier and Osmo. Sometimes you just have to jump in and make a decision, and hope for the best.

Doors after 1st coat, second coat to be applied over the weekend....

 

[Mr Chibs]

I've used Fiddies hard wax oil (left over from floor) on 9 oak veneered doors, all are fine. Most seem to use Varnish though.