Have a brick wall that has been strapped and sheeted many years back as the houses were affected by damp. So trying to fit a kitchen wall unit and used a 8mm plug and 100x6 screw and a couple are turning in the hole. Advice please?
Screw not tight in rawlplug
- Thread starter RobTi
- Start date
Ive found the grey nylon fischerplugs grip the hol3 bettertnan tne harder plastic of rawl plugs. But it is easy to drill the hole oversize, even driving in tne screw to fast can spin the plug. If you need that hole drill it 40mm deeper and use a longer plug (or two in line).
A blob of filla helps settle in the plug before fixing the screw,
Fills ?A blob of filla helps settle in the plug before fixing the screw,
It’s an ex council house and half of the houses were stripped and re plastered but the other half were just strapped and sheeted many years 25+
Think the wall is shot I must have hit mortar, pulled the no.8 plug out and tried a no.10 and it still spins, years ago I would have taken the cabinets down and used a wooden dook
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- 25 Apr 2016
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Make sure you are using sufficiently long screws - 40 to 50mm into the brick so that means holes 55mm deep + thickness of the plaster (brick covering) + thickness of the material you are fixing to the wall.
Just hammer in a wooden plug .
You can use no more nails or similar. If the wall is damp use an outdoor version. Put the nozzle deep in the hole so it fills with no air bubble. Press your plastic plug deep into the adhesive and leave it to set. You can put a long screw a couple of turns into the plug to use as a handle. Push it in below the surface and remove the excess. It has to be in the brick not the plaster as Fred says.
The adhesive prevents the plug from spinning in the hole and transmits the expansive force to the wall. Take the handles out after it has set.
It is cheaper than chemical anchors and plenty strong enough for indoor work.
As there is a delay while it hardens, do all the holes one day and all the screws the next.
This works even in difficult materials like breeze blocks or lime mortar, but remember the weakness of the material and use plenty of long screws. Cabinet hanging rail is very good for bridging weak spots and spreading the load.
The adhesive prevents the plug from spinning in the hole and transmits the expansive force to the wall. Take the handles out after it has set.
It is cheaper than chemical anchors and plenty strong enough for indoor work.
As there is a delay while it hardens, do all the holes one day and all the screws the next.
This works even in difficult materials like breeze blocks or lime mortar, but remember the weakness of the material and use plenty of long screws. Cabinet hanging rail is very good for bridging weak spots and spreading the load.
Just wondering if it would work out dropping or raising the cabinets by 50mm to catch the centre of the brick instead of the mortar
Would this work if I am in the mortar rather than the brick?
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