Screws or Nails - Solid wood floor

[IamOnStage]

I cannot seam to find a definate answer to the question:

Should we nail or screw in our floor boards?

We currently have a 18mm ply wood floor and the floorboards are oak solid wood 20mm depth which have tongue and grooves.

I was planning on using the Tongue-Tite screws and hidden screwing them without any adhesive. But someone has offered to loan me a hidden nailer and suggested that i should nail the boards!

I have heard that nails work loose, squeak and are difficult to remove if access is suddenly needed.

How is it best to install the boards?

Thank you!

 

[Burnerman]

Traditionally they would be nailed, using 'clout' nails.
If the boards need to come up at any time, there will be damage done.
Screws are always visible - that may be an issue, but the heads can be filled or covered by timber plugs (time consuming).
Also, if you are nailing, consider the state of the ceiling beneath (if there is one.....) any plaster may not like it!
John

 

[srobo2]

I am also a bit confused about this - I am about to buy t&g engineered flooring and am getting different advice from different shops, and different advice from one shops website's FAQ and what the staff say.

We have a particle board floor - is it best to lay it as a floating floor, glue down or nail/screw down. I would prefer to screw down, just to make lifting in the future a little easier (in the event that the kids damage part of the floor...)

Any advice appreciated.

If I nail/screw down, I understand that I should not use underlay. However should I use a vapour barrier (such as builder's paper)?

Thanks

 

[gregers]

i think john was meant to say CUT nails and not clout nails,

if im reading this right then if its a floating floor your after then your not going to be nailing or screwing it down anyway.other wise it becomes a normal static floor.

just glue and clamp it.

 

[srobo2]

I would prefer to nail/screw it down. Is a particle board floor suitable for this?

What type of moisture barrier would you use?

Thanks

 

[crazydaze]

I would prefer to nail/screw it down. Is a particle board floor suitable for this?

What type of moisture barrier would you use?

Thanks

No, particle board is completely unsuitable, it's arguable wether Engineered flooring is suitable for this method anyway.

It's much better to float an engineered floor, and direct fix a solid floor, however, a solid floor will need to be directly fixed into ply (9mm) not a particle board (which will not have the strength to hold it in place).

Damp Membranes should'nt be used over wood subfloors, only concrete.

Visually, an Equivalent Engineered and Solid floor will look the same, a solid wood floor will be more 'solid' under foot as it is directly fixed to the subfloor as opposed to floated, BUT over a wood subfloor you will get drum noise anyway, it makes a much bigger difference on a solid subfloor.

As far as wear is concerned, the wear layer of the floor is more important than the total depth of the floor, however all wood marks, dent's scratches, staines and fades, it's SUPPOSED to do that. You can of course lightly sand it if you need to, but who realistically wants to do that?

As for replacing damaged boards, really, if you want to keep a floor looking 'perfect, you need either a click system engineered flooring or a Laminate. A good quality laminate will keep it's overall appearance much better than wood, as it won't show the signs of wear and age like wood does.

 

[srobo2]

Are you saying that I should not be installing engineered flooring over particle board whatsoever? That is totally different to advice from the shops.

If nail/screw down is not appropriate for particle board and I decide to either glue (floating floor) or glue down I understand that I need ratchet clamps to hold it together whilst the glue sets.
My floor is 8 metres long, yet the longest straps on the clamps I have seen are 5 metres long. Without sourcing longer straps to replace the 5metre long ones with, any advice on how to solve this issue?

Thanks

 

[crazydaze]

Are you saying that I should not be installing engineered flooring over particle board whatsoever? That is totally different to advice from the shops.

If nail/screw down is not appropriate for particle board and I decide to either glue (floating floor) or glue down I understand that I need ratchet clamps to hold it together whilst the glue sets.
My floor is 8 metres long, yet the longest straps on the clamps I have seen are 5 metres long. Without sourcing longer straps to replace the 5metre long ones with, any advice on how to solve this issue?

Thanks

No, what I'm saying is engineered should always be floated over particle board and never directly fixed to it.

The straps are usually used a cross the width rather than down the length of the boards. If you are installing the other way, buy a couple of extra straps, tie them together to make a 10m strap.

 

[srobo2]

ok. (room is 8x5m. Will be laying the boards with the long side along the 5m wall)

 

[crazydaze]

ok. (room is 8x5m. Will be laying the boards with the long side along the 5m wall)

So you'll either need very long clamps, or connect two straps together to span the 8m

 

[srobo2]

Going to glue it together as a floating floor.

Any recommendations for underlay? Currently looking at novostrat sonic gold that includes a vapour barrier (we have particle board floor). Does that sound OK, if so 3mm or 5mm think? For ground floor.

Thanks

 

[crazydaze]

You must NOT use a vapour barrier of any description over a non concrete subfloor.

We use Duralay Duratex, something similar would be fine, but don't use anything with a vapour barrier, these are for concrete/stone subfloor only.

 

[srobo2]

Hi Dave, would it cause problems in the future if I used a vapour barrier with a particle board sub floor?

 

[crazydaze]

Yes, the subfloor can sweat and rot.