scrimming joints?

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i've always used scrim tape only for the joints in plasterboard. but the other day i saw an adhesive specifically for jointing plasterboard in T/Perkins. firstly, would this help strengthen ceilings that may have slight movement in joists? secondly, is it worth doing considering it has to be two coated which obviously adds time and money?
 
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Are you talking about normal self adhesive scrim tape that sticks to the plasterboard/joints,, or is this a new product you've seen. :confused:
 
hi there you are on about jointing compound which is a ready mix filler for dry lining, but scrim or tape is still required at all times first you scrim up then apply jointing compound to taped edge boards, then you apply second coat recommend easy fill made by british gypsum then sand down to nothing. but i would always recommend skimmed walls. And the best way to tighten the boards use drywall screws every 150mm rather than clout nails.
 
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i mean i've seen plasterers use a jointing compound as well as the self adhesive scrim tape. is it worth doing or is it overkill?
 
Don't matter what adhesive you use when jointing you still have to use "tape" with it, Years ago if I didn't want to use the old Hessian (or Jute tape) I would use the paper tape that was used for artexing. (Sometimes you could get the tape with perfarations in it).. I would measure out the joints with it then let it soak in water while I measured up the rest of the joints and then after I had all the tape soaked I would set it on the joints with finish then when it had gone off I would plaster as normal....
 
i mean i've seen plasterers use a jointing compound as well as the self adhesive scrim tape. is it worth doing or is it overkill?
IT depends on the area being covered, if the self adhesive tape is left for a while it can start to peel away on ceilings.
But if your straight on to it, should be okay.
If you are applying jointing compound, instead of plastering, it is always worth giving a coat over to set it flat.
I am not a fan of the paper tapes as they do bubble if dry spots are left under the tape, when the joint compound was not been spread right.
So the perforated ones are the best.
 
If i'm plastering a ceiling/wall that has beveled plasterboard sheets,, i'll tape the joints, flush off the bevels/let it set, then plaster over it.
 

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