I've had some problems with condensation in my loft. Seems like the hot water tank in the loft is the culprit. I've covered a WBP ply lid in thick plastic (the stuff you use for stopping weeds coming up) and insulated the tank with space blanket and loft insulation. But when the lid sits on the tank there is still some moisture escaping through a slight gap between the lid and the top edge (aluminium) of the tank, dampening the insulation. Can anyone recommend a gel/sealant/seal to add betweeen the lid and the top of the tank to prevent this leakage? (there is an overflow pipe from the tank to outside so it would not be totally enclosed).
Sealing hot water tank lid to tank?
- Thread starter Glengyle
- Start date
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Deleted member 105431
and once it is sealed how would you change/adjust the ball valve when it plays up? If you have condensation in the loft i would say your ch f&e tank may be pumping over usually due to an underlying fault that needs sorting asap.
The condensation was probably due to the fact the lid was open at two ends and no insulation on the tank 
. I intend getting a combi boiler fitted in the next 6 months - in the event access was needed to the ballcock in the next 6 months I would just have to reseal it.
. I intend getting a combi boiler fitted in the next 6 months - in the event access was needed to the ballcock in the next 6 months I would just have to reseal it.THAT is a really stupid move. At the moment you have a backup for hot water when the boiler breaks, and a water supply of sonme sort if the water goes off. With a combi you have
NOTHING!!!
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so why doesn't your brother in law sort it out !
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namsag
Its not the answer your after but the simple fact is you have a problem and by sealing the tank up all you are doing is hiding it and going to cost you more money in the long run.
For a tank to be getting hot it is either pumping over ,which is caused by blockage or wrongly configured system and by pumping over you will have fresh oxygenated water entering the system which will rot your radiators and also add to existing blockage .
Or your boiler stat has gone and that can cause the tank to get that hot it loses its stability and collapses causing even more damage.
So instead of hiding it fix it
For a tank to be getting hot it is either pumping over ,which is caused by blockage or wrongly configured system and by pumping over you will have fresh oxygenated water entering the system which will rot your radiators and also add to existing blockage .
Or your boiler stat has gone and that can cause the tank to get that hot it loses its stability and collapses causing even more damage.
So instead of hiding it fix it
Many thanks for your answer namsag. The tank in my loft is in fact a HOT water tank. As far as I'm aware there is no problem with the tank. The problem is that moisture is escaping from the tank and causing condensation in the loft. I need to seal the lid to stop the leakage. The tank will not be totally sealed as there is an overflow pipe leading to the outside of the house.
How is his time relevant? Gordon Brown was Chancellor of the Exchequer for years, didn't make him right though. I've been self employed for years, so what?
I get lots of money fixing boilers, the most expensive ones to fix are combies. Not because I charge a lot, but because they need so much work. I would recommend you keep your existing system, and take no notice of anyone pedaling combi boilers. They are a cheap easy thing to fit, then you will pay handsomely for ever.
It is, in fact, not.
That's not the problem either - that's merely a symptom.
The problem is whatever is causing the water in the cistern to become so hot that water vapour rises off it.
You can't seal the lid, because the cistern would then not function as an expansion cistern.
Relying on that is just ignoring the problem and hoping it will go away.
Regarding your combi, they're not universally wrong or bad, but many people install them without determining whether your usage will be met by the power of a combi and the incoming mains flow rate. If you're about to put yourself in that category, then don't be surprised if you're disappointed by what happens.
Glengyle, I've checked the Elson website at http://www.elsonhotwater.co.uk/elson/elson.nsf and I have seen the various combined hot and cold water heating and storage tanks. None of the drawings I saw showed an open top of the kind you describe. However, I suggest you contact them and take their advice, although it seems to me that you could use a bead of silicon sealant (like the stuff around your bath!), which can be cut through with a stanley knife if access is required.
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namsag
Ok elson tank is meant to get hot .
Aluminium lid is usually on cold feed bit of tank and this should be cold it should not be getting that hot that it gives of steam ,that would suggest it is getting far too hot.
Majority of elson i see have no lids at all and in normal operation don`t give off any condensation so you prob have a faulty stat. iF stat ok cant se a problem with sealing up with whatever you can get to stick as its open to atmosphere by the overflow pipe
Aluminium lid is usually on cold feed bit of tank and this should be cold it should not be getting that hot that it gives of steam ,that would suggest it is getting far too hot.
Majority of elson i see have no lids at all and in normal operation don`t give off any condensation so you prob have a faulty stat. iF stat ok cant se a problem with sealing up with whatever you can get to stick as its open to atmosphere by the overflow pipe
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