Sealing sink on oak worktop issues...

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Hi

I have just installed my IKEA kitchen with oak veneered worktops. They come pre oiled, but I only just read you are meant to oil them more once installed.

I put in my sink with a bead of silicon around the endge and then tightened the sink clips to squash it, and then cut the silicon back after.

I've just noticed after a couple of months some black marks alojbg the grain where water has been sitting. I think it's partly just the wettest part, but also where the silicon isn't perfect and water has been able to sit.

Did I make a mistake with the silicon? Should I have just put a bead in and used my finger or profiling tool, rather than cut it back?

What would be the best course of action now? Should I loosen the sink, and try and get off all the silicon? Then maybe sand down around the sink so the silicon will stick to the wood, as it probably won't stick to an oiled surface will it?

Any advice would be great
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Yes you should have used you finger or the profiling tool and is why water has got behind it.

Otherwise what you have done is correct.
 
Ideally, the worktop would have had 3 or 4 more coats of oil before you siliconed the sink.

I don't know how thick the veneer is. You might want to check with Ikea before you sand it back.
 
Ideally, the worktop would have had 3 or 4 more coats of oil before you siliconed the sink.

I don't know how thick the veneer is. You might want to check with Ikea before you sand it back.

Yeah I bought some oil, I thought it was pre finished but its only got a light coat on

But silicon won't stick to oiled wood, thats the issue. I will need to probably sand back very carefully the area where the sink sits on the worktop
 
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Yeah I bought some oil, I thought it was pre finished but its only got a light coat on

But silicon won't stick to oiled wood, thats the issue. I will need to probably sand back very carefully the area where the sink sits on the worktop

Silicone will stick to the likes of danish oil (when cured). Which oil do you have?
 
That should be fine. It dries slowly but it does eventually dry.

If you wanted to use something like olive oil then the silicone wouldn't stick.
 
That should be fine. It dries slowly but it does eventually dry.

If you wanted to use something like olive oil then the silicone wouldn't stick.
I kind of thought oil was oil and they all would be difficult to stick to, thats what I read elsewhere?
 
I kind of thought oil was oil and they all would be difficult to stick to, thats what I read elsewhere?

Seriously, ignore what you had previously read elsewhere. The oil you currently have will accept silicone a day or two after you last apply it (assuming normal drying conditions).
 
I kind of thought oil was oil and they all would be difficult to stick to, thats what I read elsewhere?
The oils used as furniture finishes are designed to cure. Some oils, like polymerised tung oil, boiled linseed oil, etc cure naturally in air. Other oils like commercial Danish oil are mixed with additives such as terebene dryers to ensure that they cure. Cooking oils, mineral oils, etc are generally unsuitable for furniture finishing because they don't cure and some can become rancid to boot.
 
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you need to also get the sink out and seal all around the end grain where the sink hole has been cut out.
 

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