Secure/sturdy/thermally efficient door recommendations?

[wizbongre]

Hi all,

We've noticed our kitchen door out to the garden (typical UPVC job) isn't closing/sealing as well as it should. I can see in one corner there is a gap between the frame seal and the door itself. The hinges have been adjusted quite a bit historically to counter this but there's no further adjustment as far as I can tell. It looks like the hinges have worn and the door has sagged on them - I've had this with most UPVC doors I've owned unfortunately when they get old and have been repeatedly slammed.

It's so bad that we appear to be getting damp coming in now, as the plasterboard at the bottom of the door reveal and the floor tiles at the threshold are showing signs of water damage. I'm guessing it is due to the volume of water getting past the weather seal and finding its way through the bottom of the door frame. (If it's not the door, I've got bigger problems as no idea where else the damp is coming from!)

So, looking at a replacement, I'm interested if there is any particular brand/manufacturer I should be looking for, or specific set of features/technical specifications I should be expecting? I've not had a UPVC door fitted for over 10 years.

I'm thinking of three key areas: security, thermal efficiency (i.e. insulation) and structural strength.

Do I just go with a recommended local fitter and whatever they fit, or is there more science to it? We'll need a replacement window fitted that butts up to the side for half of the height of the door, if that makes any difference.

 

[crank39]

For your ref you have a 'door and side flag', they are screwed together but are two seperate frames so one can be changed without the other although it helps if the frame thickness is the same, most now are 70mm and have been for 15/20 years but there are some weird ones out there at 60/62/65 and 68mm.

As for the pvc profile/system itself then they all have to meet the same U value now so there isn't really a lot to choose between profiles (apart from Duraflex.....just dont!), they're all mush of a muchness now but what we do say is a middle of the road frame well fitted is better than the most expensive frame thats badly fitted, when I say a middle of the road I'm saying an 8/10 frame vs a 10/10, duraflex would be a 3/10 IMO, luckily every profile from then on is at least a 7/10 so theres no real bad ones its mainly in the fitting

My advice is go for a established small/medium local firm, someone who can't afford bad reviews, the nationals will not care about your bad review when they spend millions on advertising, facebook is a good place to ask for local recommendations

 

[wizbongre]

Thanks for that quick response - really helpful.

Are there any differences in door construction from a security perspective? Are there better construction approaches and/or locking mechanisms I should look out for?

 

[crank39]

Pvc profile systems are hollow chambered profiles, most if not all manufacturers reinforce the hollow sections with steel 'U' sections not box section however these don't go right to the corners but stop about 100mm from the corners, again all pretty much the same, internally beaded is a must but most are anyway. Locking mech wise then its hooks hooks and more hooks, an average mech will have a centre latch/deadbolt with a hook and a roller cam up top and the same below, the better ones will maybe have 4 hooks and 2 rollers or 2 hooks, 2 deadbolts(in addition to the centre one) and 2 rollers, if your really posh you can get shootbolts top and bottom that go up and down, hinge side you can have 'hinge bolts' that help reinforce the weaker side

 

[wizbongre]

Thanks, again.
And the actual door itself - I'm not imagining a difference between composite/solid doors and older types, am I? Our front door appears to be a solid/composite type with "pretend" panelling as part of the design; the knackered door appears to have panels fitted and held in with beading.