Security Door?

[dhutch]

Can someone suggest a suitable tough security door?

We are looking to replace the side door of our garage with something more secure. Currently it has a fairly good inwards opening wooden door with a single central mortise, but this doesn't appear to be sufficient and we're looking for something more substantial.

I presume it makes sense to move to an outward opening door to make it harder to force, and to a multi-point locking system with dogbolts on the hinge side and a steel door plate over the lock area which runs over onto the frame.

However I'm running slightly short in terms of what to use for the actual door. Its a garage, so it doesnt have to be decorative, and its inside so doesn't need to be weatherproof, but our local builder suggested a veneered chipboard fire door "Like they use in schools" but im worried that while its a fairly heavy door, it wouldnt take much to get the lock out of it.

We have looked briefly at steel doors, but dont really want to make it look like fort knox which would give the impression there is something to pinch!

All suggestions welcome.


Daniel

 

[JohnD]

you say it's inside.

do you mean it opens into the house, or do you mean there is a lobby or something with an external door? The external door needs to be the best. Once I am out of sight in your lobby I can take my time and use tools to open the internal door.

 

[dhutch]

you say it's inside.

do you mean it opens into the house, or do you mean there is a lobby or something with an external door? The external door needs to be the best. Once I am out of sight in your lobby I can take my time and use tools to open the internal door.

To be exact its a door into a store room of the main garage, which doesn't have garage doors. So it is the first line of defense, but yes, we are very much aware that once at the door the are out of sight and not overly audible from the house either.


Daniel

 

[JohnD]

I don't understand "its a door into a store room of the main garage, which doesn't have garage doors"

but my storage cabin has a panelled hardwood door with three stainless steel hinges and a Chubb mortice lock. If I was expecting trouble I would add an alarm sensor.

If it is out of sight and hearing, a person can cut through anything with a cordless drill and jigsaw, or an angle grinder, whether the door is made of wood, steel or concrete.

 

[catlad]

You can clad the door in sheet steel a couple of mm thick and then drill your key holes out, you may need to upgrade your hinges for the extra weight.

 

[dhutch]

I don't understand "its a door into a store room of the main garage, which doesn't have garage doors"

Basically, double garage which doesnt have garage doors (aka, large brick carport, if you must) which then has a store room (and small workshop) off to the side, access through a door from the main garage. See below.
[code:1]
_____________________________
| | |
| door-| Store |
| |_______|
| | |
| door-| |
| Garage | |
| | |
| |W.shop |
| | |
| | |
|_ _ _|_______|

Front of garage

[/code:1]


I understand to a certain extent, if they want in, the will get it, but I guess the hope is the will at some point go next door instead...

Alarms have been considered, as well as a dirty great bit pir flood in the back of the garage, but one thing that would be very important is that anything in terms of locks/alarms is quick and easy to lock. All the trouble we have had has been just a normal evening/night when we're in the house, not when we're on holiday or the drives empty, just a normal evening, and in fact in the most recent time it was mid evening and we where all still up, and intercepted the attack, by chance, when nipping out to get something from the storeroom, which in the past would not even have been locked at the time.


Daniel

 

[JohnD]

are the walls made of lightweight concrete blocks? A sturdy breadknife will deal with those.

 

[dhutch]

are the walls made of lightweight concrete blocks? A sturdy breadknife will deal with those.

They are heavy weight concrete blocks.
- So not breadknifable thermolite, but wouldnt stand up to repeat sledgehammering!

But yes, not an invalid comment.


I mean, obviously at present we need a new door anyway, because currently theres a dirty big hole in it where the lock was, which has been sured up with some angle iron and welded shut till the shops open.



Daniel

 

[JohnD]

ah, you mean you've had a break in!

are your power tools gone?

were you at home?

have you got a house intruder alarm? If so, have the workshop and store added to it. If not, get one. You can get an inexpensive but useful DIY system for £200 that you can install yourself in a couple of hours. Also have a PIR chime to detect movement in the garage area that is audible in the garage and in the house..

p.s.

having read your edited post above, I'd go for an automatic deadlocking latch. I use a Chubb 3R35, which is very strong
View media item 4413 View media item 4415 View media item 4414and you will see one on the front and back door of most high-street banks and building societies that still have a wooden door.

As it doesn't meet the British Standard, you can pick one up for a few quid on fleabay most weeks.

You can open it from inside using a knob or handle (unless you have double-locked it with a key) but the latch secures itself when the door swings shut, and always needs a key to open it (unless you have consciously snibbed it back).

So if the door is shut, it's locked. You could add a stainless steel fingerplate on each side of the door, fixed with coachbolts, to reinforce the lock area if you want, or fit kickstop lockguards.

You could get two and have them suited to the same key, with one for your workshop, or suited to a Chubb detainer deadlock.

The latest BS graded nightlatches do the same thing.

You can also buy an Ingersoll London Line with the same functionality for a few hundred pounds.

 

[dhutch]

Ok, sounds like the correct sort of lock spec, although its not multipoint, or available as such I presume?

As said, an alarm is an option. The garage is detached and adding it to the house alarm is not an option.

I have composed a more detailed reply to PM you as its content is not really suitable for public posting, but cannot as we are not 'freinds' , but I can send it if you approve our friendship .


Daniel

 

[dhutch]

Also, any comments on how worth while PAS 24 , mentioned on almost all police and 'secure you home' type websites but not really anywhere else?

Door is going to be bought today, and currently has been spec'ed buy the builder opersite as a chipboard cored veneered/ply faced door. Although its seems unclear if there is a decent thickness to the ply or if it is just a single veneer, which obviously may make a fair diffrence to strength.


Daniel

 

[JohnD]

if you approve our friendship

done

 

[dhutch]

The doors are now fitted so to close for the sake of anyone else planning to do something simular.

We have gone for what appears to be a fairly standard interior spec solid door, these have a softwood member running top to bottom along both long edges for the lock/hinges to fasten to, with a chipboard core, and 3ply veneer on both sides, with hardwood venner around the edge. Simular dors are avilable that are suitable for exterior/weather applications.

These have been fitted into a new frame, with strong hinges, hinge bolts and a multipoint locking system simular to the lock posted above but with a multi point track.

The front of the door then has a steel plate over mid section covering around 1/3 of the door including the main lock, screwed to the door with security screws, and bolted thought to another smaller plate on the rear around the lock area with coach bolts.

One door to the store room has been make outward facing, with an additional plate to cover the lock area overlapping the frame, the workshop door has remained inward opening as otherwise it would prevent access when a car was parked outside it, but this room has windows.


Daniel