Shaker doors

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I have started practice runs for making shaker doors for my kitchen makeover, using a similar cutter this this fromTrend. New to routers and this is first time I have used table I have made.
My first school boy error was to not read box correctly for cutter. I was planning on using oak 4x1 for stile & rail, approx 21mm. Cutter says maximum 18mm. I know im a numpty, dont think local yard does thinner stock. So, are there any ideas as to how to work with this cutter or buy another expensive bit?
 
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Can you not plane your timber down to size?
Woodworking is never simple when machines are involved.
 
No, I have limited tools and lots of cupboards to cut. Is there a standard for thickness I wonder. I have a plank of 5x1 oak which I have cut into what i think are correct lengths to test but cant until I resolve this problem.
The other issue I have is inserting centre board, which are 9mm, and cutter cuts 6.?mm slots. Would it be resonable to shave a little off boards with cutter?
 
You could remove some off the rear of the panel with that cutter.
18mm are standard for kitchen cabinet doors.

I assume you have someone machine thicknessing your timber to size?
 
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No, I was planning on using stock they have as I hoped the size would be fine, and in 5m lengths the most economical. They come in 94mm, 21mm, 5m. So I wanted to use chop saw to cut to length, and tounge n groove on router table.
hoping it would be efficient as lots of work with little time.
 
I was planning on using oak 4x1 for stile & rail, approx 21mm. Cutter says maximum 18mm.
Well, you'll know for next time.

What were you planning to use for the centre panel? With that cutter it should be 6mm thick, however if you go to 9.5mm or 10mm oak-veneered MDF it should be possible to shim-out the tongue set to accommodate this (i.e. make a thicker tongue), then cut your groove with the single groover in two passes to match (tip: ideally make all the passes at one depth, then adjust the cutter to make the second pass. Check everything as you go to esure a fit). Standard hinges should accommodate 18 to 22mm thick doors. In my experience MDF doors are 18mm, solid wood doors from trade outlets are pretty much always 20 to 22mm thick - at least from the three suppliers I use

Whatever you do don't take any supplied or advertised measurements in timber materials at face value - whilst 18mm MDF is pretty much always that, plywood, veneered MDF and planed timbers are almost always "nominal" sizes - so you need to measure everything. But I'm sure you now realise that
 
If your panels are solid wood you could raise them using an appropriate cutter which leaves you the correct slot dimension.
Then fit the raised side on the inside of the door.

Like this guy does on shaker doors...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFdvDgBTqz8

Go forward to 3:50 minutes into the video to see what I mean.
 
I thought that the problem was that the tongue part of the cutter set couldn't do the joint?
 
this is the cutter, as its adjustable I dont know if i can place a washer in middle to upsize it.
Max for cutter says 18mm. Stock is 21. Also was planning on oak veneered ply 9mm for Panel. Dont think i can get 6mm. But if poss can i rabbit the back of panel to fit? I will look for new cutter more suitable.

Also, that link, talk about another world. Hehe. Workshop bigger than my house, every tool going. Didnt know drill presses do 13at time,! :oops:
And kept counting his fingers, sure he doesnt want them all.
Seriously tho, Id rather not shell out for panel bit as well, they are huge! And a little scary. Lol, thanks tho
 
this is the cutter, as its adjustable I dont know if i can place a washer in middle to upsize it.
Not a washer - but a spacer from the manufacturer (the thing is doing 18,000 rpm so the spacer really needs to fit snugly - and BTW have you altered the speed setting on the router to take this into account?). Your cutter is a Trend CraftPro C158 T&G cutter. Trend sell a spacer set, part number SPACER/8 for it (£6.79 + VAT list price). Undo the bolt, take the lower cutter off, add spacers to the right size below the bearing (1/8in or 3.2mm) and re-install the lower cutter, spacers, nut, etc and you'll be good to go for the tongue. Obviously make a test cut first. The tongue cut needs to be shimmed to match your panel material and the groove can be adjusted to fit afterwards. The groove will still need to be cut in two passes. That way you won't need to rebate (not rabbit, please - that's Yankee speak) the panel, go in for panel raising or any other non-essential process. Absolutely no need to get a new cutter

Didnt know drill presses do 13at time
Sounds like a line borer head. Used to be fairly standard piece of kit in furniture factories

Seriously tho, Id rather not shell out for panel bit as well, they are huge! And a little scary. Lol, thanks tho
And in any case they won't work on MDF, plywood, etc......... Only solid timber. They also need to be run at 8,000 to 12,000 rpm - run them at 24,000 and you risk screwing up the router bearings in the longer term
 
Dont worry, safety is paramount. I did mean buy official part. I just didnt know if this would work. When you say 3.2mm, I assume that means 1 x 3, 2 x 0.1mm? I did lower speed yes, have only tried one test pass, however without switch (not arrived yet) its to dangerous.
Shimmed?
Im having trouble getting my head round the measurements. With spacers i can cut up to 21mm, with 9.5mm toungu. Great for panel, how will I cut the groove? is that what you mean by do 2 cuts, move it down for 2nd cut? Shim
this has to be fairly easy to duplicate for many cuts. I will do a few at a time as I get time and funds.
Thanks again for help
;)
these extra bearings came with cutter, i cant work out what there for.
 
I did mean buy official part. I just didnt know if this would work. When you say 3.2mm, I assume that means 1 x 3, 2 x 0.1mm?
Yes. So that the thicknesses add up to 3.2mm

Spacer = shim. Interchangable in this context

With spacers i can cut up to 21mm, with 9.5mm toungue. Great for panel, how will I cut the groove? is that what you mean by do 2 cuts, move it down for 2nd cut? Shim
Yes shim the two cutters to make a tongue of 9.5mm - so actually 22.2mm overall height (6.35 cutter + 6.35 bearing + 3.2 shims + 6.35 cutter - accordingto the Trend catalogue in front of me - which works for your 21mm stock). To make the groove, because you only have a 6.35mm groover, you'll need to make 2 passes, changing the height of the cutter between passes (or flipping the timber over) to cut a 9.5mm groove

these extra bearings came with cutter, i cant work out what there for.
Different depths of groove/width of tongue, I think. Not 100% sure. In fact looking at the pic again they look like they could be three shims and a bearing. The catalogue seems to show a couple of shims at the bottom of the cutter set when using both cutters to form a tongue. Any chance of a piccy of all the bits in the packet? What does the instruction sheet say. You may need to install the bearing between the two thin shims (which then act as seals). Without the cutter set in front of me it's difficult to say (my own is a Wealden and slightly different)
 
If i can flip wood for 2nd pass to create groove it would be great, is this likely to be trial and error or is there an easier approach?
I will take pic tommorow as cutter is in shed. The instructions list what seems to be on spindle when brought, I have not touched them yet. And whats in bag is extra, thats why i am unsure.
1 review on web says it comes with extra bearings for soft/ hard wood?
 
If i can flip wood for 2nd pass to create groove it would be great, is this likely to be trial and error or is there an easier approach?
Trial and error. Fitting is always like that
 
this is the cutter Jk, hope you can see ok. I am going to have a go at resetting it in a bit for groove.
Also got nvr and scissor jack in, managed to have a play today With some ogee edging on few shelves, worked great. Found the end cut a little tricky as quite large gap in between bit on fence, narrow stock wants to move off line towards bit.

P.s. appologies for upsidedown pics.
 

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