Shed - no access to 2 sides, how to prolong life

[roodles]

Sorry for the long rambling post, just looking for pointers.

TL;DR, want to re-treat side of shed with 5" access haha


I've just moved into a house which has a shed with electrics installed, armoured cable going in and its own fuse board. So the shed cannot be moved. I want to beef up insulation (celotex is quite expensive) and make it a home office.

There are 2 sides of the shed butted against fences. I cannot access them as it is neighbours gardens and there are extensive shrubs etc.

One side has a 2" gap between shed and fence, and the roof overhang is about 3" so actually over the fence very slightly.

The other side is about a 5" gap (so about a 2" gap from the roof overhang to the fence).

The roof slopes into one corner, which is on the side slightly overhanging the fence. I think the water therefore runs off over the fence (need to check this when it rains).

What are the best options to prolong the life of the shed - it looks virtually new at the moment. I was thinking maybe installing guttering and trying to squirt some spray wood preserver down the sides from the roof?

Any shed experts got any pearls of wisdom for me?
Cheers
Rob

 

[Burnerman]

Fix some guttering and guide the water well away from the shed.
Apply preservative with a garden spray.......the type with a longish lance maybe?
Allow a good draught on the underside if possible......block any access with wire mesh to keep the leaves out.
John

 

[roodles]

Thanks John, gutter and spray it is.

One other question please. I've just noticed that the shed sits on a frame with no air gap (batons are enclosed with wood frame on all sides)

The batons run side to side, so I was thinking of drilling a 32mm hole at the end of each baton run, to allow air under the floorboards. I can't see any other way of getting air circulation under the shed, and it's definitely retaining damp!

 

[Burnerman]

The more ventilation the better really - could you fit soffit vents (the round, plastic push in type) or are you pushed for room?
John

 

[JohnD]

Cultivate good relations with your neighbour. Lend him your pruners and invite him to your barbie. Once softened up, offer to prune his bush and renovate his fence. This may include clearing access and removing the old panels to replace with new.

Good gutters and drainage are vital.

 

[roodles]

Thanks - I will add as much ventilation as I can.

I lifted the carpet up and oh my some of it is in poor shape.

The plan is to add lots of vent holes and let it all dry out. Then replace the rotten batons and floorboard sections

Then add damproof on top of the floorboard, additional batons and celotex, laminate on top...

Lots to do!

 

[roodles]

Cultivate good relations with your neighbour. Lend him your pruners and invite him to your barbie. Once softened up, offer to prune his bush and renovate his fence. This may include clearing access and removing the old panels to replace with new.

Good gutters and drainage are vital.

Fortunately I can add the gutters from my side. It would possibly involve felling a small tree to get access from the other side!

The other points sound valid, regardless of access

 

[Diver Fred]

To preserve the timber in this extreme position may I suggest 'Waxoyl' thinned with 5 - 10% white spirit. I did this on garden shed some 25 years ago it shed water like new.

 

[Millwright]

.......Once softened up, offer to prune his bush ......

Oh Matron!

 

[big-all]

you need the sides to cover the base
get yourself some 2L pop bottles cut the top and bottom off then cut full width along the tube
cut 65-75mm bands and force between base and plank sides around 25mm [vertical behind plank and timber behind]
you can try dpm rolls but thicker and less stiff so harder to get in the gap