Should new external gas pipe be concealed/protected?

[999undecided999]

We have just had a new gas combi boiler and cental heating system fitted by mr Corgi guy but i have a few niggeling doubts over a few of the finished 'jobs'.

I was hoping an inpartial gas fitting pro could put my mind at rest and help by answering a few questions...

1. Should the new external meter to the front of the house be connected to the new boiler, (sited in the loft approx 6 meters away), by an external length of 22mm copper pipe left bare to the elements?

My common sense is telling me the pipe should be boxed in or something?


2. Is it reasonable to expect them to refit the floorboards, (the way they have run the pipework means the original boards won't go back down and are supprted by lagging only)


3. Is there a minimum thickness pipe lagging has to be for building regs?

4. They have put the new plastic condensate pipe from the boiler directly into the drain, does it have to terminate in to a soakaway for building regs approval?

5. At what point am i supposed to get a certificate proving that the boiler has been commissioned properly?

Any assistance with the answers to these questions would be most welcome, Thankyou in advance!

 

[littleleaks]

We have just had a new gas combi boiler and cental heating system fitted by mr Corgi guy but i have a few niggeling doubts over a few of the finished 'jobs'.

I was hoping an inpartial gas fitting pro could put my mind at rest and help by answering a few questions...

1. Should the new external meter to the front of the house be connected to the new boiler, (sited in the loft approx 6 meters away), by an external length of 22mm copper pipe left bare to the elements?

Thats fine gas pipe does not need to be boxed nor lagged.

2. Is it reasonable to expect them to refit the floorboards, (the way they have run the pipework means the original boards won't go back down and are supprted by lagging only

Yes they should repair any damage they did when installing, Have they left the pipwork proud of the joists so the boards won`t rest on them?

3. Is there a minimum thickness pipe lagging has to be for building regs?

see question 1

4. They have put the new plastic condensate pipe from the boiler directly into the drain, does it have to terminate in to a soakaway for building regs approval?

This is fine

5. At what point am i supposed to get a certificate proving that the boiler has been commissioned properly?

when the job is done.

 

[kevplumb]

1. Should the new external meter to the front of the house be connected to the new boiler, (sited in the loft approx 6 meters away), by an external length of 22mm copper pipe left bare to the elements?

no probs they could have used coated copper but apparently the regs have been relaxed

2. Is it reasonable to expect them to refit the floorboards, (the way they have run the pipework means the original boards won't go back down and are supprted by lagging only)

yes it is reasonable get them back and kick ass

4. They have put the new plastic condensate pipe from the boiler directly into the drain, does it have to terminate in to a soakaway for building regs approval?

drain is ok

5. At what point am i supposed to get a certificate proving that the boiler has been commissioned properly?

you should have the benchmark book if not kick and fling till you get it

 

[999undecided999]

Thankyou Thankyou for your speeeeeeeeeedy responses!!!

Phewwwww, good news about the external pipework being okay...(i think we still may have to box it in though...to stop the kids swinging on it).

Mr Corgi guy has cut large notches out, (about 1/2 the way through ), of the floor joists which means the pipework plus lagging spans 20cm plus, but the individual wooden floorboards are only 15cm wide....

 

[gas4you]

Mr Corgi guy has cut large notches out, (about 1/2 the way through ), of the floor joists which means the pipework plus lagging spans 20cm plus, but the individual wooden floorboards are only 15cm wide....

This sounds as if he has totally ruined the joists if I have read this correctly and it is obviously now impossible for the boards to be fixed back down with stressing the pipe work.

Normally the notches in the joists would be the minimum width required for, say 2 pipes, eg 22mm and also leaving a good untouched part of the joist for re-fixing the board back down.

I just use tubular hairfelt around the pipes, just across the joists only, to help stop the creaking expansion and contraction noises, not proper insulation.

If you have more than a couple of pipes of this or greater diameter the next board should have been lifted and that joist notched out again.

Sounds like you had something of a cowboy lifting your boards

 

[littleleaks]

Mr Corgi guy has cut large notches out, (about 1/2 the way through ), of the floor joists which means the pipework plus lagging spans 20cm plus, but the individual wooden floorboards are only 15cm wide....

If he has cut half way through your joists they are ruined, you can`t cut more than 1/4 of a notch into a joist before you cause major weakness in it.
Although if they are cut half way through i can`t for the life of me figure why the 22mm pipe won`t sit in enough for the boards to be laid back?

 

[gas4you]

I took the post to mean that rather than notching the joists for a couple of pipes, the idiot has cut a 'notch' 20cm wide and half the joist deep therefore there is no joist left to sit the 15cm board back onto

I may be wrong though, but's that how I have read it.

 

[littleleaks]

Lets wait and see what the op says

 

[999undecided999]

I took the post to mean that rather than notching the joists for a couple of pipes, the idiot has cut a 'notch' 20cm wide and half the joist deep therefore there is no joist left to sit the 15cm board back onto

I may be wrong though, but's that how I have read it.

You are correct.

We will have to cut up some chipboard to span the gap?, the current floor boards are too narrow now?. I was really upset on seeing the mess as i was planning on sanding the wooden floor and keeping them uncarpeted.

Also, it is worrying the the joists may now be too weak to offer structural support....what can i do? What will the building inspector say? Will we have to foot the bill for new joists now?

Mr corgi gave us the bill last week, (more than the agreed price ofcourse), so we have'nt paid for labour yet.....should we withhold part payment or something?

He said he was corgi, and has been doing it for many years so i assumed he would be alright for the job...guess i was wrong.

 

[kevindgas]

give Corgi a ring and tell them what has been done, verify his registration as what he has done doesn't sound safe maybe there are other issues as well.
the inspectors i have had for annual inspections (5 in total) have all been very helpful and will guide you as you what next to do.

 

[kevindgas]

if you can post a couple of pictures on here we may be able to give you advice on next course of action

 

[999undecided999]

Corgi helpline just told me to get out another corgi trades person and pay for them to inspect the work and correct it if needs be.


Ermmmmm, i think that 'do it twice shame on me' phrase springs to mind.


Corgi seem unlikely to assist with this...any other ideas....help???

Nowi am worrying about the whole boiler installation, we have two toddlers and are due to move back in the house in 10 days time.

 

[littleleaks]

Repairing the joists would not be to difficult, but it would of course cost you so with hold payment from the origanel installer till you see how much the repairs will cost.
Also ask him, why is the final bill more than his origanel price? If he was going over what he priced then he should have spoken about it with you, if he screwed up the cost then it`s his loss.

 

[Beans-on-Toast]

999undecided999 , I mean no disrespect to you as you are not in the trade and therefore inexperienced in these situations.

The rest of you, so called tradesmen, should be a little less venomous when answering the OP and without looking at any pics how can you possibly decide whether or not the Corgi has done the right thing or not.

As for telling the OP not to pay, call corgi immediately or any other derogitry remarks that you make from the comfort of your pc, you should feel ashamed of yourselves.

Have none of you ever come across a situation that requires fixing by a builder and not a gasman ?

Have none of you ever underpriced a job, only to realise that there is more work and materials required once started ?
Especially on cheapy cheap jobs....?
Have none of you ever experienced the tossers of customers that have to be dealt with ? (no offence intended 999)

You can tell by the original post that 999 is worrying unnecessarily in regard the building regs.

Fixing a notched out joist is a piece of pis* as most of you well know, whether the notches are slightly large or not.

You have added fuel to a fire that may not be burning brightly.

Have a Good Day and worry more about your own lives....!
Instead of worrying already worried OP's.

IMO

The very first thing to do is to ask the fitter if he is prepared to fix the problems, as if you get ANOther to do it he will charge whatever and that will be unfairly deducted from the fitters price. We can all swallow a few hours work, if needs be.

 

[gas4you]

Have none of you ever underpriced a job, only to realise that there is more work and materials required once started ?

If a job is quoted for in writing and you have cocked it up due to your own fault or inexperience then it is down to you to absorb any extra costs.

A quote is a quote.

Especially on cheapy cheap jobs....?

Never do these type of jobs

Have none of you ever experienced the t*****s of customers that have to be dealt with ?

Most of us are experienced enough to recognise a customer such as this and would walk away without taking on the job.

I am very choosy who I work for