Shower Isolator tips.

[kai]

Using a din-rail mounting isolation switch (the sort you can find in CU's) seems a better option for a shower isolation device (if there is an airing cupboard adjacent the bathroom) - It's easier to just open the front of the enclosure to tighten up the terminals yearly, than messing around with a traditional shower switch - there is no need to continually flex the cables every year, with the risk of breakage of the cores, as would happen with a traditional shower switch.

Now if someone will invent a White coloured din-rail box, that will be great - as it will mark the end of the traditional shower switch, with all the pushing and twisting to get the cores into the back box enclosure....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's inside a cupboard.

Why does it have to be white?

 

[Steve]

And it'd still be ugly as hell.

 

[electronicsuk]

Not to mention that a traditional DIN rail mounted isolator isn't really intended for regular use in a functional switching capacity.

 

[Steve]

Not to mention that a traditional DIN rail mounted isolator isn't really intended for regular use in a functional switching capacity.

It wouldnt be switching under load though . . .

 

[electronicsuk]

Not to mention that a traditional DIN rail mounted isolator isn't really intended for regular use in a functional switching capacity.

It wouldnt be switching under load though . . .

True, true, although I'd assume that a proper DP shower isolator is designed for many more mechanical operations than the rarely used DP isolator as found in a consumer unit.

 

[bernardgreen]

Could use a contactor with the coil switched by a 5 amp pull switch wired in 1mm (or 1.5 mm ) with suitable fusing down from the shower supply (or fed from the lighting circuit.)

Shower power circuit of course wired in 10 mm.

 

[GaryMo]

Not to mention that a traditional DIN rail mounted isolator isn't really intended for regular use in a functional switching capacity.

Table 53.2 would say otherwise - BS EN 60947-3, suitable for isolation (if marked with relevant symbol), emergency switching and functional switching.

It doesn't differentiate between functional switching twice per day or twice per year. Maybe it would be a case of call the manufacturer and ask?

 

[kai]

The Isolator does have AC22A marked on it, the (A) meaning frequent switching of the loads, an old fashioned isolator is often cord operated, and frequently snaps after a couple of years use, as they need a hard tug in order to operate their heavy duty mechanisms.

 

[GaryMo]

BS EN 60947-3 has AC-22A meaning "Switching of mixed resistive and inductive loads, including moderate overloads".

For a rated operational current of less than 100A, it's rated for 120 operating cycles per hour.
8500 cycles without current (total), 1500 cycles with current (total) and a total of 10000 cycles.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And it'd still be ugly as hell.

Well - this is twice as big as it needs to be, but lid down I think you're some way off with your "ugly as hell"....

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Re the frequency of use of the isolator, some interesting (?) questions arise.

Why do people feel that there is a need to use the isolator on a regular or habitual basis? What other appliances do they isolate in the same way? I can't comment as my isolator also switches the fan, so it does get used 2-3 times a day. But I never flick the switch on the sockets where the following are plugged in or connected via an FCU:

TV
DVD recorder
Washing machine
Tumble drier
Dishwasher
Kettle
Spurred sockets in the office
Stereo
Cooker

Am I extraordinarily unusual?

Where does the desire to work the shower isolator all the time come from?

 

[ColJack]

were you bought up in a house with a shower pullcord or was yours in the airing cupboard?

ours was in the cupboard so we never used it...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I was brought up in a house without an electric shower.

 

[ColJack]

ah there you go then...